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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-22-2013, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Forward Clutch

What would cause the forward clutch to burn up?.. All the steels have hot spots on them and the frictions are worn smooth.

The 1/2 accumulator lower spring was broken.

What I do know is:

There where no codes
I have the correct fluid level.
Reverse works fine
Trans will not shift into 1 or 2 when either in O/D or manual 1 or 2.
All other clutch packs look good.

I would need to rev the engine up to about 4500 rpms to get moving.. slowly but once I get up to about 35 40 mph it seems like 3rd gear is engaged and will shift into 4th.

Trans is out of 99 Mustang.

Planning on doing a couple of pressure tests at the ports over the weekend.

Thanks for any help or direction
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-23-2013, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Just a follow up.. connected two gauges to the trans.. one to the line port and the other to the forward port. What I got was 53 psi on the line side and then when shifting into O/D the forward side only climbed to 30 psi. This is should indicate a bad 1/2 solenoid correct?
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 10:18 AM
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got a leak somewhere i would say pissing pressure out somewhere
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-25-2013, 12:04 PM
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What would cause the forward clutch to burn up?.. All the steels have hot spots on them and the frictions are worn smooth.The 1/2 accumulator lower spring was broken.
My guess is poor 2-3 Accumulator setup.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-04-2013, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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With a possible leak being somewhere would it more than likely be in the valve body?

I thought the 1/2 accumulator was only for softening the shift from 1 to 2?
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-04-2013, 01:03 PM
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With a possible leak being somewhere would it more than likely be in the valve body?

I thought the 1/2 accumulator was only for softening the shift from 1 to 2?
You'll want to "absorb" the greatest 4r70w Article of all time:

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=106348

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Buck,

Thanks for the info.

I do have a few questions though.

So the 2/3 accumulator is applying pressure to the forward clutch when the gear select is in either manual first or O/D when starting in first?

Is there a way to test or check the 2/3 accumulator and the 1/2 accumulator?

Then the valve body.. I can always take it apart, clean it up and put it back to together but again is there a way to check the various valves?

Again, thanks for the help.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-07-2013, 10:38 AM
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I'm NO Guru but here's what I've absorbed fm Guru's:

Go to www.sonnax.com for Main VB Parts / fixes via our Vendors.

DD always said to leave a 1-2 Accumuator Spring IN the V6's as he actually WANTED some flare to help the V6 "cope" w/ 1-2 Shift.

You'll be deleting any 2-3 Accumualator Spring & any "delay" in that Shift is hard / eventually fatal on Forward Clutches.

I'm kinda worried about your Pump at this point but you'll be inspecting that of course.

Best to go to inexpensive Air to Fluid Cooler & delete Rad Tranny Fluid Cooler for your new / rebuilt Tranny.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-07-2013, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info..

If I have line pressure though at idle that is within the spec range and that pressure increases as it should with engine rpms that should indicate the pump is working correctly?
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-07-2013, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by IATCUYB View Post
If I have line pressure though at idle that is within the spec range and that pressure increases as it should with engine rpms that should indicate the pump is working correctly?
I would certainly think so.

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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I think I am pretty sure I found the problem.. the lip seal under the spring in the forward clutch drum. Would post a pic but not able to since I new.

Thanks for the help guys
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 03:40 AM
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I think I am pretty sure I found the problem.. the lip seal under the spring in the forward clutch drum. Would post a pic but not able to since I new. Thanks for the help guys
Seems like I tested those Seals with Air to Apply Piston after assembling Pack (I used Plastic Shim Stock as Lip Seal protector)- I'd think the heat from slipping could damage them too (41/42 on Exploded view) - So unless Seals were recently installed incorrectly & not tested & that caused "Failure to fully Apply " then question could still be why it failed to FULLY Apply when Seals were good & heat from slipping Clutches killed Seals... Right___?

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Last edited by BUCK; 07-09-2013 at 03:48 AM.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Eh.. I went at this so half a**ed I am ashamed of myself.

The car sat for over a year. My guess between that and a teenager having the car before I did is the combination for the seals and forward clutch to go bad.. more so for it sitting such a long time..
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 06:58 PM
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Forward clutch seal is blown

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Any tips or tools for installing the seals (sliding the pistons into drums with new seals)?
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-24-2013, 07:06 AM
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yeah, you need the lip seal protector tools.

http://www.ctpowertrain.com/servlet/...OD-AODE/Detail

I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-24-2013, 07:35 AM
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Any tips or tools for installing the seals (sliding the pistons into drums with new seals)?
Plastic Shim Stock worked for me - I just cut it w/Scissors to suit.

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