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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-19-2013, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up 4R70W rebuild

wow... been a while since I have been on this site. here's my latest project;

I had the privilege of working on a local Georgia Crown Vic recently, A very clean 2002 black LX sport with 82K on the odometer. The owner of the car says he found the transmission dipstick not seated in the filler tube (raised about 2") about 4-5 months ago and after that the transmission started shuttering, then eventually stopped going in any forward gear. Fortunately, he stopped driving the car and trailered it to me. The transmission came out of the car with out incident, other than 3 of the 4 exhaust flange bolts breaking.









Once I got the transmission apart, I found the intermediate and direct clutches were delaminating, the forward clutches were burned and the OD band was burned and starting to pit.

The friction material peeled off the clutch discs like wet paper, I have never seen anything like it.

Intermediate clutch






Clutch Delamination - AKA wet paper


Direct clutches




OD Band


there was some evidence of water in the fluid and the case, most of the water I found was in the pan and the extension housing.









I also found evidence the output speed sensor had contacted the ring gear on the output shaft, damaging the sensor.







The direct clutch piston showed some signs wear on the inner face where the seal rides, there was also some machine markings that did not polish out, I replaced the piston with a good used piston.





The valve body was completely disassembled and cleaned. The seperator plate also showed signs of water intrusion (mild rust build up). I cleaned and drilled the seperator plate according to Jerry's specifications (Jmod) and installed updated Sonnax shift valves.
The stock pressure regulator valve showed moderate wear.







Knowing that owner of this car will soon be doing the MZT and having Lonnie tune the car, I chose to drill the #2 hole (controls 1-2 shift) in the separator plate with a #39 drill bit (measures .0995") and install the Lt blue upper and Purple lower 1-2 accumulator springs. The rest of the holes in the separator plate, I drilled with a 7/64" drill (.1094") The shift is more responsive now, but not harsh. Personally, I think it could be more crisp, but it should improve once the tune from BOC is installed.



I did some lubrication modifications while putting it back together. The Stator has 3 feed holes for the Intermediate one way roller clutch, Intermediate clutch and reverse clutch. those 3 holes were enlarged to 3/32" or .093". I also made the feed holes on the direct drum snout larger, these holes were increased to 1/16". Enlarging these holes improves lubrication to the sun gear and related bushings, which have a high failure rate under heavy use.



Going back together, the transmission got new rubber seals and gaskets, new high energy direct and intermediate clutches, new forward clutches, new reverse clutches and new OD band. I removed the wave plate in the forward clutch and increased it to 6 clutches. This will improve the torque capacity of the transmission. I also installed a spiral snap ring on the mechanical diode intermediate one way clutch. The intermediate one way clutch and the reverse drum see very high RPM in 3rd gear and the OEM snap ring is notorious for getting flung off at this high RPM. The new spiral ring has an outer retainer that you crimp or stake when its assembled, so the spiral ring isn't going anywhere, even at high RPM.



Everything assembled correctly, the end clearance was with in specifications and all the clutches passed an air test, with the Air test plate installed.





The transmission installed with out any serious problems. I filled it with 14 qts of Mercon V and went for a test drive. All 4 gears engaged properly but I immediately noticed there was no lock up. 10 miles later the CEL light came on and OD Light started flashing, a quick scan of the codes revealed codes p0741, p1740 and p1744, which confirmed the TCC solenoid wasn't working. I let the car cool for an hour, dropped the pan and swapped the TCC solenoid with a spare, refilled with fluid and test drove again, confirming Lock up was working.

I delivered the car to the owner on Tuesday. He is currently working with Lonnie to get the car tuned, then he will installing a Marauder air box assembly, Zip tube and 75mm throttle body.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-19-2013, 07:25 PM
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got to love how the adhesive for the clutches is water soluble. any water gets inside and she will loose all the material

must have penetrated through the dipstick tube. otherwise i sure hope the heat exchanger in the rad isn't cracked, but i would think their would be much more milkshake in the trans.

makes me wonder how the stick got left out... hopefully he doesnt bring it to jiffylube or something for fluid service. ive seen them do much worse then just leaving a checkstick up >.>

otherwise looks good, hope your customer is happy for a long time.

RUST!! eating away at me more than the rear fender wells
95 Deep Jewel Green 40th Anniversary Bird / Stock SOHC 190k 96-97 intake swap, 97 Mk8 4R70W, Jmod, 3L27 / energy susp rear spindle, and cobra arm bushings, 93 Mk8 shaft, and LCAs, 225/60r16 on Windstar twin 5spokes, Vogtland 1.6drop springs, Tokico Blues, PBR, and rear-disk swap, 89 SC swaybars
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-19-2013, 08:55 PM
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I dumped my ATF shortly after my headswap to prevent just that. I accidentally left the tube attached to the head and it pulled out just as the remaining coolant gushed out between the HG. That was a $100 mistake, which ultimately turned out benign (I didn't find any coolant/ATF slushies) but well worth the peace of mind.

-Matt
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-19-2013, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by nall_one View Post
got to love how the adhesive for the clutches is water soluble. any water gets inside and she will loose all the material

must have penetrated through the dipstick tube. otherwise i sure hope the heat exchanger in the rad isn't cracked, but i would think their would be much more milkshake in the trans.

makes me wonder how the stick got left out... hopefully he doesnt bring it to jiffylube or something for fluid service. ive seen them do much worse then just leaving a checkstick up >.>

otherwise looks good, hope your customer is happy for a long time.
98+ Crown Vic has external air to fluid heat exchanger, so as long as the dipstick is in place it shouldn't happen again.

I had the radiator transmission cooler spring a leak in my 97 Cougar and luckily I caught it in time before the cooling system really pressurized, the strawberry milkshake was all in the cooling system, no coolant got into the transmission. Messy to clean up, but not catastrophic to the transmission.

That valve is very scuffed up. I thought the ones I pulled from my 97 Mark VIII showed wear, but it was really nothing more than what looked like a coating/anodizing starting the wear, but replacing them sure made me feel like I had a brand new transmission.

I wish I had the experience, time, tools, to be able to dig into one of these transmissions. Last two I did were a C4 and a C5. The biggest issue I ran into is a clean clear space, and specialty tools.

--
97 Mark VIII LSC/Silver/Gray leather
97 Cougar 4.6 Sport/White Opalescent Tricoat Metallic /Gray leather down but not out?
89 Cougar LS 3.8/Oxford White/Gray velour/HG need replaced AGAIN
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82 F-150/Oxford White/dumb VV carb doesn't pass emissions

Last edited by Bangster; 07-19-2013 at 09:12 PM.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-20-2013, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nall_one View Post
got to love how the adhesive for the clutches is water soluble. any water gets inside and she will loose all the material

must have penetrated through the dipstick tube. otherwise i sure hope the heat exchanger in the rad isn't cracked, but i would think their would be much more milkshake in the trans.

makes me wonder how the stick got left out... hopefully he doesnt bring it to jiffylube or something for fluid service. ive seen them do much worse then just leaving a checkstick up >.>

otherwise looks good, hope your customer is happy for a long time.
yeah, I forgot to mention this car had an external air to fluid cooler, it didn't get routed through the radiator. I am told most, if not all, 98+ panther chassis have this type of cooler set up. I know newer Ford trucks/Vans use this set up.

The owner of this car is religious about washing/detailing the car and the engine bay. I am sure he sprayed water in the engine area at least once, not knowing the dipstick was not seated.

I flushed the cooler very well before the transmission was re-installed.

Last edited by 88grandmarq; 07-20-2013 at 10:49 AM.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-20-2013, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangster View Post
98+ Crown Vic has external air to fluid heat exchanger, so as long as the dipstick is in place it shouldn't happen again.

I had the radiator transmission cooler spring a leak in my 97 Cougar and luckily I caught it in time before the cooling system really pressurized, the strawberry milkshake was all in the cooling system, no coolant got into the transmission. Messy to clean up, but not catastrophic to the transmission.

That valve is very scuffed up. I thought the ones I pulled from my 97 Mark VIII showed wear, but it was really nothing more than what looked like a coating/anodizing starting the wear, but replacing them sure made me feel like I had a brand new transmission.

I wish I had the experience, time, tools, to be able to dig into one of these transmissions. Last two I did were a C4 and a C5. The biggest issue I ran into is a clean clear space, and specialty tools.
Moderate to Excessive wear on the pressure regulator valve can be attributed to fluid condition, debris and what type of driving you do.

If the car is driven around town and constantly changing gears, the valve obviously gets more use and wears.

Knowing this car came from New York and seeing the poor condition of the fluid, I expected this valve to be worn.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-20-2013, 11:01 AM
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wow, sure wish they would have put an air to fluid cooler on ours >.> or pretty much all fords in our year range. would have saved a lot of Taurus transmissions

ford must have wised up and realized they were running their transmissions waaaaaay too damn hot.

that kind of makes me wonder whether my sisters new 01 windstar has a good cooler on it. that would give me peace of mind, ill have to go look sometime. still have to fix the cruise control anyway... it just shuts back off when you try to set speed. hopefully its not that brake pressure switch getting ready to burn the thing down. pretty sure it had the update on it when we bought it.

RUST!! eating away at me more than the rear fender wells
95 Deep Jewel Green 40th Anniversary Bird / Stock SOHC 190k 96-97 intake swap, 97 Mk8 4R70W, Jmod, 3L27 / energy susp rear spindle, and cobra arm bushings, 93 Mk8 shaft, and LCAs, 225/60r16 on Windstar twin 5spokes, Vogtland 1.6drop springs, Tokico Blues, PBR, and rear-disk swap, 89 SC swaybars
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-20-2013, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nall_one View Post
that kind of makes me wonder whether my sisters new 01 windstar has a good cooler on it. that would give me peace of mind, ill have to go look sometime. still have to fix the cruise control anyway... it just shuts back off when you try to set speed. hopefully its not that brake pressure switch getting ready to burn the thing down. pretty sure it had the update on it when we bought it.
- I went with a brand new Ford P/N F4TH 7A095 for $25 off EBAY - Which is the OPTIONAL Trans Cooler on the old Windstars but the Ford P/N has a nice bracket well suited to under Bumper installs on Mk's & Tbirds although it was probably in front of Rad stock (which I would NEVER do) - It's just a $60 B&M 70273 with a bracket - & Yeah Windstar Tranny's were kinda under-sized for the job so...

GET OFF MY LAWN~! ... & Let's not forget guys... There's still a dead Imaginary Ex-Girlfriend out there...
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