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post #1 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-29-2013, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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trans shudder?

Guess I never realized that I had a trans shudder till today. It kinda feels like you're going over a bumpy road. I notice it mostly on the highway when cruising or when it shifts into 4th. It also does it when im cruising just above 30 mph. How much longer will it last? Any ideas?
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post #2 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-29-2013, 11:39 AM
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Buy a case of Mercon V.
Drain the transmission AND the torque converter (there is a little plug) and put in the new fluid.

That should stop your shudder which is the torque converter, not the transmission.

My Explorer was doing it when I first got it and the fluid change solved the problem.

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post #3 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-29-2013, 01:42 PM
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Also, make sure you get the old fluid out of the cooling lines running up to the rad. You need to get rid of absolutely as much of the old fluid as possible.

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post #4 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-29-2013, 01:50 PM
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Also, make sure you get the old fluid out of the cooling lines running up to the rad. You need to get rid of absolutely as much of the old fluid as possible.
You can, but I gotta share what I did with the Exploder...

I didn't want to pull the pan or drain the converter, but I did want to get rid of the shutter.

Soooooo, I did a quick and dirty method of fluid change (please don't everybody laugh)...
I unhooked the top tranny line from the radiator (cause it was easy to get to), hooked a rubber hose on it and ran it to a bucket. I started the truck and let it idle until all the fluid pumped out that was going to pump out.

I'm not sure how much fluid came out, but it was not anywhere near a case (I guess the converter didn't completely drain). Anyways, I refilled with Mercon V after I bolted the line back on and the shudder is gone.

I'm not recommending you do it this way, I'm just saying that I'm not so sure you have to get EVERY DROP since my half-butt way worked. Now, my TBird, I did it right and drain out A LOT more fluid...

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post #5 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-29-2013, 02:49 PM
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Soooooo, I did a quick and dirty method of fluid change (please don't everybody laugh)...
I unhooked the top tranny line from the radiator (cause it was easy to get to), hooked a rubber hose on it and ran it to a bucket. I started the truck and let it idle until all the fluid pumped out that was going to pump out.
That's the way I drain mine, run it until the fluid sputters.................drain the converter then drop the pan!

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post #6 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-29-2013, 06:35 PM
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...about seven yrs. ago mine shuttered. Like I was going over rubble strips for a second or two at the three four shift...part throttle, navigating freeway on off ramps.

Took between 13 to 14 qrts. I also added a pint of Lucas.

I've done this twice in seven yrs.

I'm always careful that the engine is fully saturated with heat when making my final fluid check.
Don't want to overfill it.

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post #7 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-29-2013, 11:00 PM
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Oh yes, when refilling, follow the procedure. Don't just add in 12 qts and think you're good. During the final part, only add 1/4 quart increments at a time so you don't overfill it. That was a pain for me.

Be sure to hold your foot on the brake pedal and slowly go between all the gears without moving to help get the fluid worked all the way through. The refill procedure is kicking around here somewhere.

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post #8 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-30-2013, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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Is there an inspection cover on the bell housing to get to the converter plug? Also is it on the drivers side or passenger side?
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post #9 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-30-2013, 09:05 AM
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Is there an inspection cover on the bell housing to get to the converter plug? Also is it on the drivers side or passenger side?
Yes, it is in the middle of the bellhousing, under the rubber cap. Put a long ratchet on the crank bolt and turn engine clockwise until the drain bolt appears.

A LOT of fluid comes out of a stock converter, like 4-5 qts. This is very necessary for a complete fluid change.

The complete fluid change (listed in the tech articles) involves running the car with the upper radiator line disconnected, and a fitting with hose to a bucket. Run till it sputters, then shut off, not long.

Then the TC drain, then remove the pan and replace the filter. Re-use the gasket if it is a factory one. You can replace 12 qts with a thorough change. You have to drive the car at least 25+ miles to get the trans hot, this will greatly affect the reading on the dipstick.

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post #10 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-31-2013, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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Just read the tech article mercon v specs. It says mercon v can be used in 94-95 birds but its not recommended by ford because it can cause leaks in transmission. How likely is that to happen?
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post #11 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-31-2013, 12:09 AM
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post #12 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-31-2013, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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So if I were to get a 99+ trans and do the jmod with a better converter and a good cooler, I'm guessing I would be in the $2000-2500 range. The car would be much more fun to drive but its likely id have tyranny problems again or not? ( with regular maintenance)
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post #13 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-31-2013, 08:46 AM
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I would try the fluid first, it has eliminated shudder on a lot of cars.

For the 99+ trans, you need a few extras to make it compatible. New flexplate, etc. There should be a list around here somewhere.

Al

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post #14 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-31-2013, 09:24 AM
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You don't need a new flexplate for a 99+ trans swap unless you intend to use an 11.25" converter with it - but there are indeed some things you need to do to accommodate the trans.

The only mandatory changes are that you need to swap your stock MLPS over and repin the trans harness connector (or switch back to the pre-98 style internal harness).

While not mandatory in most cases, you should keep your stock trans output shaft/swap it onto the new trans. The newer output shafts have different provisions for the speedometer and keeping your stock output shaft minimizes the changes needed.

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post #15 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-01-2014, 01:16 PM
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So if I were to get a 99+ trans and do the jmod with a better converter and a good cooler, I'm guessing I would be in the $2000-2500 range. The car would be much more fun to drive but its likely id have tyranny problems again or not? ( with regular maintenance)
Just try the fluid change first, it's a lot easier and cheaper and will most likely solve your immediate problem. If you buy a used 99+ trans there's no guarantee it won't have problems down the road (unless you get a rebuilt one).

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post #16 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-01-2014, 09:43 PM
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If you don't want to do a change get some of this....


http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-230/Dr.+...t+Shudder+Fixx


Fixes shudder in minutes.

Many people have fixed there 4r70 shudder with it. Is it the best way to go? Probably not, fresh fluid in a otherwise healthy trans is, but it fixes the problem and is a lot cheaper ($7) than a complete fluid filter change. I haven't had an ounce of shudder since I put it in 2 years/15k ago.
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post #17 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-02-2014, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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Am I suppose to use the old pan gasket or get a new one. Which is better cork or rubber?
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post #18 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-02-2014, 08:47 AM
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If the factory one is still in good shape, then re-use it. It is some type of metal with a rubber coating.

As far as aftermarket gasket, rubber is better, but you would be using whatever comes with the filter you buy.

Al

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post #19 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-02-2014, 12:23 PM
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Am I suppose to use the old pan gasket or get a new one. Which is better cork or rubber?
Any Gasket other than Factory one is crap.

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post #20 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-02-2014, 05:48 PM
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Transmission Pan Gasket

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Any Gasket other than Factory one is crap.
Pretty much..When it comes to the AODE/4R70W/4R75W..The factory one is about as good as it gets..

Moroso makes a good gasket as well that has the steel core/rubber bonded, and is reusable..

They both cost about the same..

Ford AODE/4R70W/4R75W Transmission Pan Gasket -->(F2VY-7A191-A) (F2VY7A191A)

Moroso AODE/4R70W/4R75W Transmission Pan Gasket -->(Moroso) Part#93106

Quote:
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If the factory one is still in good shape, then re-use it.


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post #21 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-03-2014, 12:02 PM
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Just read the tech article mercon v specs. It says mercon v can be used in 94-95 birds but its not recommended by ford because it can cause leaks in transmission. How likely is that to happen?
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/trfluid.html ....
"Ford TSB 98-3-6 recommends complete drain & refill with Mercon V for all AODE/4R70W Transmissions. Any other ATF's could prove fatal for the AODE's, which are used in '94 & newer Tbirds. Mercon V should NOT be used in AOD's in '93 & older Tbirs."
I used to have a copy of TSB 98-3-6 saved.

I bought my '95 T-bird in May 2009 and it had 51K miles then, but no shudder. I began to experience the shudder on my T-bird's trans in 2010 near 60K as I recall, bad jerking ... so I changed to Mercon V .... and I added a cooler, and swapped all the fluid to Mercon V, no shudder since, now nearer 84-85K miles.

Like others I undid a trans cooling line and put a hose into a 5 gallon bucket beside fgront wheel where I could watch it while reaching into car and idled engine until fluid sputter, cut engine off imedialtely and drained TC at plug and dropped pan. I also added a drain plug kit I made.

Later when I did the J-mod I simply drained and saved that liquid gold Mercon V and did my mod, then strained the fluid through a paint strainer and reused same.

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post #22 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-03-2014, 07:12 PM
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yeah, pulling the cooler line is a perfectly fine way for removing most of the pan fluid so you don't have to take a mercV bath. i wouldn't feel embarrassed at all by doing it that way. i do it like that every time, not everyone has a flush machine handy, and thats how they work anyway

i know when i swapped in my mk8 trans it was completely empty, and took almost exactly 12quarts. so if your just doing the line flush, converter drain, and pan drop their might still be a half quart or so in the valve body. 11 1/2 quarts maybe?

but yeah, just poor in 5 quarts, fire it up and shut it off, poor in 4 more, and then fill it really slow after its warmed up. it will take a while since filling through the check tube will make reading the stick difficult... got to let it settle for a few seconds every time you poor anything in >.>

that should completely cure the shudder unless the damage has been done. and since you seem to have been driving like this a while, you might want to cross your fingers and toes.

cooler is also a GREAT idea, pretty much every ford passenger car only runs a heat exchanger in the radiator which causes the trans to run extremely hot. i call em trans warmers...

somewhere around 200+ is what i usually see. its really should be somewhere around 170-180... supposedly for every 10 degrees over 180 you get you can cut your fluid life in half. seem to remember hearing that somewhere

and along those lines you can imagine even with syn mercV's 60000 life, running at what 210* all the time is like 7500 miles

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post #23 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-07-2014, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Should I replace the 1-2 accumulator piston with a rubber one while I have the pan off?
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post #24 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 12:31 AM
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Should I replace the 1-2 accumulator piston with a rubber one while I have the pan off?
If it has the old-style aluminum with o-ring piston - YES, definitely change it while you are there (and the 2-3 accum piston).

This is the new style that you want:

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post #25 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
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im guessng those are ford dealer parts...is the 2-3 piston as easy to replace?
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post #26 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 05:29 AM
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The 2-3 is actually easier to replace than the 1-2 because you don't have to fight with the snap ring to get the retainer out - but you do have to drop the valve body to get at it.

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post #27 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 09:22 AM
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im guessng those are ford dealer parts...is the 2-3 piston as easy to replace?
If you are into it that far, just get a complete J-mod kit from RobertP and be done with it. You will have to drill out a couple things in the valve body, but the kit helps with trans life.

Al

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post #28 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 09:33 AM
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im guessng those are ford dealer parts...is the 2-3 piston as easy to replace?
I have a set of the new pistons if you want them. I also have some stiffer springs if you want to change those when you put the pistons in. I'll get some pics for you when I get back to the house if you're interested.

I actually have a 1995 J-Modded plate too (modded to the 300hp mild setting). The only thing missing would be the gaskets that you have to get at Ford - they're cheap.

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post #29 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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I want to do the jmod but want to see if the new fluid fixes the shudder first
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post #30 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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How much u want for the jmod kit?
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