2001 4R70W + BCA Valve Body - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-07-2014, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Buzzing noise & warm trans temp after re-installing accumulators

Hello to the forum, and with my first post I start out asking for help. I have a 2001 Ford Crown Victoria, base model, that I pretty much converted to the "police package"

I installed a full suspension with springs, anti-sway bars, shocks, 11.25" torque converter (factory was 12",) 3.55 rear gears with traction lock (factory was 2.73,) dual exhaust, aluminum metal matrix drive shaft, extended tail housing, black speedometer gear (for accurate speed readings with 3.55 rear gear and 8-tooth output shaft) and a (used) BCA valve body with both lower accumulator springs removed. I did not swap out the short tail shaft for the long tail shaft. I only swapped the tail housing for the longer version.

I also use a P71 engine computer from the same year so that the programming is correct for the torque converter and gear (well, almost - 2001 P71 factory gearing was 3.27.)

Anyway, I have ran this setup for over 4 years now.

The shifts are not harsh at light throttle, but they will chirp the tires at full throttle, and under moderate throttle when it is wet.

I am not a track runner, or a racer, or someone who generally drives fast. But knowing that I could not safely operate the car in a more spirited level of acceleration when it is wet out makes me somewhat uncomfortable.

Even last year, under really light acceleration, I felt the rear end just *barely* slide on the 1-2 shift when there was a bit of black ice on the road.

I assume that my best course of action would be to re-install both of the lower springs for the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator.

I bought the used BCA valve body from a guy who wrecked his car. I had an experienced transmission tech open up the valve body and take a look to make sure it was OK before I installed it. He said the holes were drilled differently than the J-Mod specification, but I do not remember what was different exactly. It is also possible that BCA Automotive has some other changes.

The reason I wanted to do the J-Mod or BCA valve body was that my transmission still shifted different than a P71, so I wanted to firm it up somewhat without being harsh. Yeah, the quick tire chirp shifts were cool when I was 21 years old, but I don't think they are that cool anymore. I drive very conservatively. I do like a clean, quick shift, but I would like it to shift without harshness that will cause tire chirp or dangerous fishtailing when it is wet (which is exacerbated by the traction lock!)

There must be something different about the base model valve body, if it shifts more drawn out than the P71 transmission. Besides that, the transmissions are identical, with the exception of the tail shaft.

Anyway, I am running the BCA valve body with my lower accumulator springs removed. I still have the factory original upper accumulator spring installed for the 1-2 accumulator.

Any suggestions as to how to remove the harshness of the (especially) 1-2 and 2-3 shifts? Should I purchase some other accumulator springs that are different than my factory original springs?

PS - I am not exactly sure what this BCA valve body was built for, but I know the guy had a supercharger in his 2v 4.6 Crown Victoria. So perhaps it was built for a more aggressive shift to begin with.

Although my car doesn't shift terribly hard, it will break traction, especially in the wet. And this is what makes me uncomfortable.

A friend of mine had a B&M shift kit in his 4R75E and it shifted perfectly. It was a quick firm shift but it wasn't jarring or hard. It's hard to describe...

You can see a a video that I filmed of how my car shifts last November here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAKYg7z9dTc

That was filmed with a slightly dirty MAF sensor so likely now the car spools up a bit quicker than in the video.

Last edited by Blaine B.; 02-11-2015 at 06:07 PM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-08-2014, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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You can see here, this shift is just about perfect. I took a ride-along in a 2005 Police Interceptor that had a B&M shift kit installed after the SECOND replacement transmission (all under 100,000 miles!)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfbyD9psAtg

The shift is quick but is not jarring. Can you see the difference between my car and this car in how they shift?

I would like to replicate the shift in the second video as closely as possible. Will re-installing my lower accumulator springs for the 1-2 and 2-3 do this?
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-08-2014, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Blaine B. View Post
Will re-installing my lower accumulator springs for the 1-2 and 2-3 do this?
Replacing the springs will soften those shifts; but, it also depends on what size holes are in the VB plate.

And what valves, springs, etc. have been added to the VB itself; there are a lot of mods.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-08-2014, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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I don't know exactly what this kit was made for. When I bought the valve body I spent an hour on the phone talking to Darrin at BCA. Most likely upgraded valves/pistons in the valve body, etc. It was probably made for a higher horsepower than my car (stock) puts out, since the original user had a supercharger in his car.

So the best thing I can do, short of starting over with a fresh valve body and doing the JMOD myself, is to install both of the lower accumulator springs that I took out.

Maybe this would be a good time to buy a better set of accumulator springs? I have heard there are various types.

I also read that 01-05 used a dual lower spring setup for the 1-2 accumulator. I can tell you that my car did NOT have two lower springs for the 1-2 accumulator.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-25-2014, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Here's an update - last Friday I pulled the valvebody back out and re-installed the original factory lower accumulator springs. I still had the lower springs standing-by since I removed them about 3-1/2 years ago.

Of course I am still not familiar with what all was done to the BC Automotive valve body since I did not build it or modify it myself, but the shifts are so much better. I don't think that there is really a reason to remove the accumulator springs. The shifts are just as quick, just less harsh. Do removing the accumulator springs make any difference in quarter mile or half mile times? I don't know.

Of course, at full throttle, the 1-2 shift is still very firm. To be honest, I wouldn't mind if it was even less firm than it is, because I am quite confident that the 1-2 shift would still break the tires loose under slick road conditions. But that would require a stock valve body that I could jmod from the get-go. I'll probably just leave it as is, even though I would feel comfortable completing a jmod now (a few years ago I was a bit leery about modifying the one and only valve body that I had, which is why I elected to purchase another valve body.)

So I have a green upper spring and a yellow lower spring for the 1-2 accumulator, and a brown lower spring for the 2-3 accumulator. These are the stock original springs that came with the car.

I noticed that there is a BLUE inner spring listed that is supposed to go inside the YELLOW spring for the 1-2 shift accumulator, but this blue spring was never there. When I swapped the torque converter in 2010, the "baby rattler" was in the pan, which indicated that no one had been in the trans before. I am 100% sure that a blue spring was never removed from the 1-2 accumulator.

Has anyone with a 2001 Crown Victoria or Grand Marquis found that their 1-2 shift accumulator only had one lower spring instead of two?
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-25-2014, 09:46 PM
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I am like you. I like quick shifts but not harsh shifts. We are unlike most of my customers however. Most, the vast majority actually, would have a fit if they don't have the impressive shifts that break the tires loose and rattle your teeth.

I hate that. My truck kind of just clicks into gear. It doesn't slide into gear or slam into gear. It just gently shifts right damn now with no slippage. Ideal for me.

D

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-25-2014, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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That is quite perfect.

Although this BCA valve body I am using was built for a supercharged car, so I am sure it has more of the "cool" factor applied into the engineering of the hole sizes.

We talked about it on the phone about 4 years ago when I was buying it used. You were nice enough to take the time to talk to a "non customer" about one of your products - thank you.

I am sure if the separator plate holes were drilled slightly smaller on the conservative side, it would be even more ideal for what I want. But re-installing the accumulator springs changed things for the better.

PS, do you know anything about the inner blue spring for the 1-2 accumulator? I am seeing that listed for 2001+. Maybe it is a mistake, and it showed up sometime between 2003, 2004, or 2005?

As I said, my 1-2 accumulator only had one yellow lower spring with no spring inside the yellow spring.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 06:22 AM
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Yeah, almost nothing had that inner 1-2 accumulator spring in 01-03. No worries.

If you want to swap out that plate let me know. Just pay shipping.

D

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks but you do understand that I did not buy this valve body directly from you. It was built for another user, and when he wrecked the car, I bought it used.

I'll probably just leave it as is, or it'll be a long while until I decide to change anything again.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Blaine B. View Post
Thanks but you do understand that I did not buy this valve body directly from you. It was built for another user, and when he wrecked the car, I bought it used.

I'll probably just leave it as is, or it'll be a long while until I decide to change anything again.
That's not an issue. It's not like the plate is a wear item. That swap wouldn't hurt me in the least and if it would make you happier with your setup then that's more than worth it.

Let me know
D

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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I'll be fine. I don't want to pull it all out again, nor waste all of this new fluid.

I appreciate the offer though, it is rather unexpected, but thanks nonetheless.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-27-2014, 06:38 PM
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Speaking of shift kits. After researching the jmod why dont u give it a try.

Im still puzzled as to how the hell am i suppose to know where to drill the holes bigger. I csnt zoom in on the article pics enough to see..

94 LX 4.6 120k+ bone stock.. future mods are.. Jmod trans/upgrade + explorer engine + PI top end. Trans cooler. True duals with 2.5 or 3" pipe ran into 2 32" "ol skool glasspacks" 6-9 inch cowl hood. with supercharger or turbo?. New rims. Trak loc.

Current mods... Painted rims black. Plasticdipped white center covers. Air silencer delete.

Needs to be installed.. Sport rear spoiler /w brake light. B&m electronic shift+

*if anyone has turbo headers/manifolds already welded, ready to go pm me. Im interested.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-27-2014, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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I would be comfortable doing a jmod now or in the future.

I bought this valve body used 4 years ago because I felt somewhat uncomfortable about the possibility of damaging the one and only separator plate I had available. I wanted my original valve body to be a "back up" in case anything went wrong, so I wouldn't be car-less.

Which is why I didn't do the jmod. The opportunity arose to buy a BCA valve body from a wrecked car, and I jumped on it. I have been happy with my purchase.

As for a diagram for which holes to drill for the jmod, I can't help you there!
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-27-2014, 06:52 PM
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What car did you pull it off of.? I might as well.

And i feel u about the jmod. Im going to get a spare tranny and vb just incase something breaks or goes wrong. I dnt want to be car less either.

94 LX 4.6 120k+ bone stock.. future mods are.. Jmod trans/upgrade + explorer engine + PI top end. Trans cooler. True duals with 2.5 or 3" pipe ran into 2 32" "ol skool glasspacks" 6-9 inch cowl hood. with supercharger or turbo?. New rims. Trak loc.

Current mods... Painted rims black. Plasticdipped white center covers. Air silencer delete.

Needs to be installed.. Sport rear spoiler /w brake light. B&m electronic shift+

*if anyone has turbo headers/manifolds already welded, ready to go pm me. Im interested.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-11-2015, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Something I have been noticing over the past two months since I re-installed the accumulator springs - my transmission runs HOT if I have been driving for a couple of hours. Most of my trips are rather short, so it may not be noticeable.

Prior to re-installing the accumulator springs, I rarely say my transmission get over 160-170 degrees, even during the summer. This includes the pre and post BCA valve body days.

However, once I re-installed the lower accumulator springs, I routinely see my transmission at 180+, according to my ScanGauge (same device used all along.)

I was driving the other night for about 4 hours, mostly stop and go city driving. The transmission temp peaked somewhere around 230! On the ride home on the highway, traveling 60-70 mph, it was still holding 220-230 and eventually dropped off to 200-215 after about 30 minutes.

The FIRST time I ever saw these temperatures was on the test-drive following the re-installation of the accumulator springs. However, I thought that it might just be air in the system. The system was full, with around 9 quarts of Mercon V added after I re-installed the valve body and the pan.

I even installed a new Motorcraft filter at the time when I pulled the valve body in November, even though the one in there wasn't in there for very long. Cheap preventative maintenance and all...

Also, immediately after re-installing the accumulator springs, I began noticing a sort of BUZZING noise. It really doesn't sound like it is coming from the transmission, pump, or torque converter - but who really knows! I originally thought that it was the alternator. When this noise would come-and-go, sometimes my oil pressure guage would bounce around. I thought this was back-feed from the alternator.

Anyway, I cleaned the oil pressure gauge sender connection on December 31st and never had the bouncy oil pressure gauge. And yesterday, on February 10th, I replaced the alternator and serpentine belt.

However, I am hearing the buzz today AGAIN! So, I took a video in my driveway. You can CLEARLY hear the buzz that I am talking about in the video.

Any ideas on what this might be? It seemed like my warm transmission AND this buzzing noise started occurring about the same time - right after I re-installed the lower accumulator springs and replaced the transmission filter. That's all I did, besides cleaning out the pan and wiping down the valve body.

Any thoughts? Here's the video:

http://vid20.photobucket.com/albums/.../BuzzNoise.mp4
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