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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Found some things in my tranny that are nerving.

Hey guys,
I finally started tearing into the 4R70W from the donor 94 MkVIII. This drivetrain is going into my 63 Fairlane. I figure since I pulled it all back out after fitment, that it was time to beef up the tranny and engine some since I'm going to run a small turbo on it for around 400hp total.

When I pulled the drivetrain out of the donor, I saw a nice reman sticker on the bell housing. The car had around 90,000 miles so I assume it had problems and needed rebuilt. This assures me that there aren't too many miles on it. When I pulled the convertor, I see a spotless clean new pump housing. Cool.

The tranny looks like it's been in there for a few thousand miles but it's hard to tell because the engine was leaking at the VC. That's being worked too.

Here is what I found when I pulled the pan and the 1/2 accumulator piston out. What in the world is the plastic plug sitting right near the shifter valve??????




Here's what the 1/2 spring and piston looks like. I guess they didn't update the piston so I will. The broke spring is the bottom one that is between the cover and the piston. The orange was deep inside under the piston. THe other problem I have is, are the grooves in the piston housing OK with the newer piston design or do I need to worry?





Thanks for any help or suggestions. I have the Jmod write up printed out and am going to do that as well as update a few parts. I was really hoping with a new Ford reman, that they would have made the updates. I'm a dummy for hoping. I'll get the VB off and see what else I'll need.

Thanks

Dave
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 11:56 AM
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The plastic plug is the stopper for the dipstick tube if im not mistaken.

I had the same issue with my 1-2 spring. Luckily my piston was in 1 piece and he walls were in good shape. I believe sonnax makes a sleeve kit to fix the walls. From what I understand even with the new piston, those scrapes will cause a bad seal.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 02:30 PM
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Yes, that's a plug the factory puts into the dipstick tube hole. The tube itself is installed after the body swings down on to the subframe, engine, and trans during assembly so it doesn't interfere with this mating. The plug also keeps unwanted, whatever, from entering the trans during times before assembly. It's faster just to push the plug through than take it out. When you see such a plug you can be pretty assured the trans has never been serviced. Either low miles, or neglect.

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Last edited by rushtonracing; 11-15-2014 at 02:37 PM.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 02:49 PM
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1. The plug is normal and nothing to be concerned about.
2. Throw the springs and old style accumulator away and never look back. Replace the accumulator and upper spring with the updated versions - do not replace the lower spring.
3. It's hard to tell from that photo how bad the scoring in that accumulator slot is. In most cases just stick the new accumulator in and go.

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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 03:03 PM
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My 97 Cougars bore wasn't nearly that bad, but I could feel a scratch with my fingernail so I smoothed it with very fine emery cloth so it wouldn't wear out the new piston.

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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 05:35 PM
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Per Jerry's article, just buff the sides of the bore lightly with a scotch-brite pad and use the new/molded type of accumulator going forward.

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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I went ahead and ordered a new 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator as well as a new OD 27.0 one to replace my sleeved one. I will get a new pan and the gaskets as well but I'm wondering why you say not to swap the upper spring? Per the Jmod directions, I need to get a new upper with a lower being optional and if I intend to be over 300hp, to get the new lower to put in place of the upper and not use a lower. I planned to run a new upper and lower as directed in the instructions and see how that is. I have swapped from 2.73 to 3.73 gears and I will be using a 67mm turbo for around 400hp.

The bore is not as bad as I thought. I can smooth it out and it'll be fine with the revised seal type. I'm not worried about that after researching it all day.

Thanks for all the assurance guys. I'm anxious to get this thing drilled and back together with the new parts and ready to run.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 08:16 PM
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Post some pics of the Fairlane! Sounds like an interesting build.

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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-15-2014, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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I just pulled it all back out but I have the 94 MkVIII drivetrain in it with a Mustang II front suspension from Rod & Customs. The rear is a narrowed Explorer 8.8 with limited slip 31 splines and 4 linked. THe interior will be stock completely even to the column shifter. I'm planning on Air Ride but have lots of trans tunnel work to get there. I'm also putting a 67mm turbo on the setup.



Ride height....






At full deflated height (no air ride yet. Just setting clearance and measuring.





Engine in place.....





Rear suspension........




Turbo placement.....






Slowly but surely. I retire from the Air Force in 150 days and will have more time to play with it. Money will be the problem then.

Thanks
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-16-2014, 08:17 AM
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I'd say that's going to be a nice cruiser...

Thanks for posting the photos. Look forward to updates.

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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-16-2014, 08:22 AM
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Nice Dave

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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-16-2014, 08:50 AM
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I know that the brown accumulator spring has been discontinued and I have been told that the purple spring has been discontinued as well.

PM me for info

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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-16-2014, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Most shy away from the 4 door cars but I have 3 kids all under 10 years old and I like to take friends out too. I have no tough guy complex needing 2 doors only. Hell, I paid more for the front suspension than I did for the whole car! I almost paid more for the donor than I did for the car too!!

Darrin, message sent.

Dave
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-16-2014, 02:31 PM
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Any concern about turbo lag?

Turbo lag exaggerated by turbo placement?

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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-16-2014, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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No. This turbo is small enough and I'll be running the exhaust forward and across in front of the engine. It'll spool around 2600-3000rpm which is fine by me. Velocity will be up with 2.25" hot side and a 3" down pipe to the rear. I'm not looking for every horsepower available out of it. I'm keeping the boost under 10psi too.
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-20-2014, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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I am ready to start drilling the plate now as all the parts should arrive today. I have one question though. In the Jmod directions, there is hole #8 that I'm a little concerned about.

Is the hole my pen is pointing to, actually hole #8? This is a pre 97 transmission and it states that the hole may be different than what's shown in the pic on the directions.




Thanks guys for all your support. I'm drilling this out and working it up for 300+ hp as the turbo should easily make that mark.

Dave
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-20-2014, 10:13 AM
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Info you need should be here.

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...ission/d94.jpg
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...n/page13.shtml
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...n/page14.shtml

The last link has the diagrams of the separator plates and hole locations.

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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-20-2014, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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I have all those pages printed out and in a booklet of my own. I've been studying them and writing all over them myself already. That's where my confusion on hole #8 (note #3) is. It says mine will be in a different location. I believe I have the right hole but, in the diagrams note 3 has the bottom gasket on the top of the plate it seems and I have a hole there but want to make absolutely sure before I punch through something I shouldn't have. Their plate doesn't have the hole in the pic.

I'm hoping someone with an early model that did this can chime in and say, yes, that's the hole as I did it on mine and it worked great.

Thanks
Dave
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-20-2014, 11:02 AM
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Just as it shows for note #3 in page 14 and the picture, that is #8 on the older valve bodies.

I DON'T have a 94 or 95 and only have done this on a number of 97 or newer plates, but it is pretty obvious to me looking at the images and the notes that this is the one you're looking for as #8.

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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-20-2014, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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I looked more on it online and found a link to a thread here a while back. I'm right on the hole but in reading that thread, I'm nervous of the 1-2 shift now without a lower spring. the lower spring recommended has been discontinued but the poster there said his 1-2 was insanely harsh. I don't want my wife driving it and have it break loose on her while shifting. What lower spring is there to put in now?

Dave
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-20-2014, 01:24 PM
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I would search around, check dealers and different sources like eBay. I'm sure you'll find one.

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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-20-2014, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave R View Post
I'm hoping someone with an early model that did this can chime in and say, yes, that's the hole as I did it on mine and it worked great.
Yes, I've done this on a 93 and a 94 as the diagram indicated. Just put the gasket against the plate, hit it with a centerpunch at the location of the hole as shown in the diagram, and drill away.

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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-20-2014, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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I got the holes all drilled. I just need my new gaskets to come in so I can cut the slot and put them together. I'm waiting on my accumulator valves and 1 spring. Per the instructions, I am to leave the 2-3 spring out. I'm also to take out the stock upper spring on the 1-2 accumulator. That upper seems much softer than the lower but is also around 3/4" longer and tighter wound. I wonder if I can use one of those springs as my replacement lower on 1-2. Once I get my new piston in, I'll be able to check the actual distances of travel and take measurements. The good thing is, it's the 1-2 which will be easily accessible after the tranny is installed so I can pull it and play with different ones until I find one I like.
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2014, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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I got the new upper spring and 1-2 accumulator as well as the 2-3 accumulator and cover. I also picked up the 27mm OD servo to help hold up top with power. I also got a new VSS that I'll modify to handle the factory speedometer cable of the 63. I have to know how fast this thing is going. The Jmod is done and everything is back together and ready to mate up to the engine.





Dave
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2014, 12:53 AM
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Where did that come from? I've never seen a gasket like that used on a valve body of a transmission.

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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2014, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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That's the small one on the thick steel plate on the bottom of the VB. The actual separator plate gaskets are the same old paper thin flat and smooth type under that one in the bag. The one I took off the transmission was exactly the same as that one with the sealing pattern on it.

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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-22-2014, 10:07 PM
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I've got the right lower springs if you need them. These are not the wrong purple F3LY-7F284-A that I have seen being sold as the right one. That F3LY-7F284-A spring is purple too, but is has the wrong dimensions and is quite a bit stiffer than the F7AZ-7F284-BA spring that Jerry specified in his article.

I'm working on the brown F75Z-7F284-BA springs. Those have been discontinued too and I haven't found those yet. Give me time though.

And for that gasket, that's the expensive version of the proper gasket for the older valve body. They are nice.

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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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What are you wanting for the spring? I might be interested. I was planning to try it without one and go from there but if I can have the recommended one available, That would assure me options.
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