First of all, I apologize for creating another thread. Back in August I created a thread (http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=151129
) that discussed the accumulator springs.
In May 2011 I installed a BC Automotive valve body and removed the lower springs from the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator.
Fast-forward to this past November 2014, I dropped the valve body again, and re-installed the lower springs for the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator.
Right AFTER I finished, I started noticing a buzzing sound. I wasn't quite sure what it was. I was worried that it might be transmission related since I just started noticing it after re-installing the springs, but the transmission shifts fine and everything. Torque convert lockup locks and unlocks on command, and so does enabling and disabling overdrive.
Anyway, I "assumed" that the buzzing was alternator related. Occasionally, my oil pressure gauge would flicker when this buzz was audible, yet if I gave it throttle, the buzz would disappear, and the oil pressure gauge would stabilize. Of course, my oil pressure gate is just an "idiot gauge" and does not really indicate true oil pressure. It is either ON or OFF.
On December 31st, 2014, I cleaned the oil pressure sending unit plug/connector and I never saw a fluctuating gauge ever again. However, the buzz would still be audible from time to time, after the car has been warm for awhile.
Anyway, I have had a ScanGauge in my car for YEARS and I never saw the transmission temperature rise above 160-170. It was always consistently BELOW engine coolant temperature.
On the test-drive following the re-installation of the lower accumulator springs, I noticed that the transmission was running unusually warm - Above 200 degrees! I thought this was odd, but once again, "assumed" that there might be air in the cooler lines, since I had just pulled the valve body. The transmission oil was full - I put about 9 quarts back in (just slightly under, actually) and the reading on the dip stick was (and still is) in the correct zone.
I usually don't drive my car for very long. Short trips - the transmission temperature never really gets long. However, the other night, I was driving for an unusually lengthy period - about 4 hours in total, through the city, with stop lights at just about every block. As time went on, I noticed that my transmission fluid temperature peaked at 230 degrees! Although everything was shifting properly, the buzzing was audible when I stopped at stop lights and rolled down my window.
Even on the 45 minute mild highway cruise (65ish mph) back home, the transmission fluid temperature took a lengthy amount of time to drop back down. Even so, it was still between 200-215 from what I can remember.
Since I was still suspecting the alternator to be the cause of this buzz, I thought that it might be back-feeding some odd voltage into the system. Although my voltage was steady, I assumed that there were other strange electronic gremlins that could come from a buzzing alternator, including an improper trans temperature readout.
Yesterday, I replaced the alternator and serpentine belt. Checked all of the pulleys for play. Everything checked out.
Today, after driving for about 45 minutes, I once again noticed the buzzing sound, and the transmission was just starting to reach about 180 degrees. So I took a video. You can CLEARLY hear the buzz in this video - you'll know exactly what I am referring to when you listen!
Anyway.....any ideas on what this might be?
I have dropped the pan a total of three times since I have owned this car.
In July 2010, I pulled the transmission down and swapped out the 12" torque converter for a 11.25" rebuilt unit, compliments of the NTC Torque Converter shop in Chicago, IL. At the same time, I also installed a new flex plate, compliments of Ford.
In May 2011, I installed the BCA valve body, removed the lower 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator springs, and installed the longer tailshaft housing and new tailhousing seal.
And then lastly, in November 2014, I re-installed the lower 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator springs.
Each time I re-filled with fresh Mercon V.
I am not running any custom tunes - I am running a bone stock P71 engine computer to supplement my 3.55 rear gears and 11.25" torque converter.
Any thoughts? Tidbits or advice? I tried searching the web, seeking videos of 4R70W transmissions buzzing, but really didn't find anything quite like this at all.