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post #1 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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v6 transmission or rebuild factory gt?

Hi I can get a used transmission for around $250 out of a 94 V6 how well will it hold to stock 302? Trying to decide if I should buy one install it or spend a little more and rebuild the one in the car now?
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post #2 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 10:20 PM
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Neither. Get one out of a 99-04 V6 mustang. It will be a stronger and better trans than any of the earlier ones.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
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post #3 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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How would I hook it up and working right since the connections and everything are different?
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post #4 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 10:58 PM
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Same way we use 99+ transmissions in these cars, swap the MLPS and switch around a few pins on the trans harness connector.

-Matt
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post #5 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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I've never done either the MLPS I think will be pretty easy to switch as far the pins go I don't know where to get tools to remove and install the pins.
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post #6 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 11:37 PM
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It's super easy. Just swap one pin at a time. I did it in probably 20 minutes never doing it before.

-Daniel

My driving is a constant struggle between wanting good gas mileage and driving like I'm Mario Andretti.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=134659&page=4

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post #7 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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Where can I buy the tool to remove the pins out of one harness and into another one?
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post #8 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 11:41 PM
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You're not moving the pins from one harness to another, just moving the individual pins around in the same connector. A regular old glasses screwdriver is all you need

-Matt
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post #9 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Oh ok how do I know which one's to move around and to where? Or will it be obvious if and or when I can find and buy one from the years y'all are talking about?
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post #10 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 12:28 PM
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You will need the wiring diagram for both your car, and the car that the transmission came from. Compare the different circuits and see what pins they are on your harness, and move the appropriate wires to where they were in the donor car's harness.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
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post #11 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 12:31 PM
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It's in the Ford Overdrive Transmissions 101 article, chapter 16. This is the diagram you need from there.



This is the EVTM pinout to match the descriptions to the wire colors



This is my repinned connector for reference:







To get the pins out, take your screwdriver and gently pry up on the blastic center retainer:




With the retainer out you can see the plastic clips holding the round pins in:



Put the screw driver between the pin and the clip to push it away...



...and pulling the wire out from the back.


-Matt
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post #12 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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thanks guys I'm SURE glad I joined the forum lol y'all have a lot more transmission tech than the mustang forums. I know this isn't what I asked about but I'm thinking some of my issues might lie in the MLPS the Haynes manual says to use a voltmeter do I need to buy it and an multimeter or just the multimeter?
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post #13 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 09:54 PM
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A multimeter does many things. It reads voltage, resistance, amperage, and sometimes other things like frequency or capacitance. I don't know if stand-alone voltmeters even exist.

1996 Thunderbird LX (4.6), previous daily driver

1995 Mustang GT (5.0), daily driver
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post #14 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Just wanted to make sure I've never used a multimeter but don't think its hard definitely going to need one for this car.
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post #15 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 10:28 PM
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I would just order a new one from the parts counter. If you put it on and it fixes your problem. Problem solved.

If not, take it back and source a new(er) transmission.

-Daniel

My driving is a constant struggle between wanting good gas mileage and driving like I'm Mario Andretti.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=134659&page=4

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post #16 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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well have to find a transmission I can afford first lol I was asking about the multimeter because I was hoping some if not all of my issues could be a faulty MLPS but don't really think so.
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post #17 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 09:37 AM
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Are you looking to replace the transmission, or do you want to diagnose what's wrong with the one you have?

1996 Thunderbird LX (4.6), previous daily driver

1995 Mustang GT (5.0), daily driver
1995 GMC C2500 (5.7), alternate daily driver
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post #18 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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I'd really rather keep the one in the car but think it's toast guess I'll need start another thread if I want to diagnose the one in the car now. Think I have a good idea of what to do if I know mines is gone for sure now from this post.
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post #19 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 06:40 PM
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I was under the impression you had to get a stand alone system to run the 4R70W's in say like a 92 5.0 Bird?

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post #20 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLINTHUNDER View Post
I was under the impression you had to get a stand alone system to run the 4R70W's in say like a 92 5.0 Bird?
That is true, but the OP has a 94 Mustang, which came factory installed with an AOD-E, which is similar enough to a 4R70, that his factory computer will run it.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
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post #21 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 10:11 AM
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Gotcha! I was lookin a little more into the 4r70 swap into a 92. I know you have to have the internals from the 4r moved into the aod housing. As far as the stand alone goes has anyone heard anything on the MSD TCM being any good? Found it at Jeggs for like $650.

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post #22 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 10:35 PM
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Actually, for that swap, I would suggest running a 94/95 Mustang ECM.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
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post #23 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-26-2015, 11:05 AM
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I would have to make a complete harness from ECU to the trans going that route correct?

Eibach pro kit springs w/rear cobra bilstiens, rear disc conversion, 2000 Cobra R wheels, 89 SC track-lock swap w/mark 8 cv shafts, 89 front and rear sway bars
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post #24 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-26-2015, 12:58 PM
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Basically yes. If you get a donor car, you can pull most of the wiring from the Mustang for it though.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
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post #25 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-28-2015, 10:23 AM
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May be a dumb question but, could I possibly just take a 4r70w from like a 2000 V6 mustang, an ECU from a 95 mustang GT and just make it a plug and play deal?

Eibach pro kit springs w/rear cobra bilstiens, rear disc conversion, 2000 Cobra R wheels, 89 SC track-lock swap w/mark 8 cv shafts, 89 front and rear sway bars
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post #26 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-28-2015, 12:14 PM
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You would need to add the wiring from the ECM connector to the trans harness, but yes basically that is what you would do.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
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post #27 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 04:38 PM
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I only ask beacuse, the M5R2 swap kind scares me in a way. I have one out of a 93 SC sitting in my garage for it but the more I think about pulling out the dash the more it gives me cold feet. I have both the SC clutch pedal and the brake pedal, the plate that covers the tunnel hole, clutch master cylinder resevoir and a new slave cylinder. Do you HAVE to pull the dash!?

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post #28 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 04:44 PM
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Haven't you swapped like 8 engines in this car? The dash isn't that bad to pull

Yes, it has to come out.

-Matt
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post #29 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 05:02 PM
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Nah, this is a totally different Bird. My 32v Bird has been consumed with rust behind the strut towers. Its nothing but a shell and drivetrain now. Bought a 92 Sport in unbelievable condition with 70k miles on her and im afraid to muck something up on it. The interior is brand new! Already got all the upgrade parts from the old one swapped over including the 3.27TL diff from an SC for the 5speed swap. I know some people have removed the drivers seat and got up under there and made it work. Just don't know exactly how hard it would be. Yeah, had to start over again XR-7! lol

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post #30 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 06:13 PM
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The dash absolutely has to come out for any 5-speed swap, but it really isn't that bad. At this point, I can have a dash out of one of these cars in 45 minutes, and back installed in an hour. If it was your first time pulling it, it still shouldn't take more than a day to pull the dash, drill the holes, mount the clutch pedal, and get everything reinstalled.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
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