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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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transmission diagnoses

Hi, sorry for posting numerous threads but I'm sure my transmission is basically toast, but wanted to make sure before getting one out of an 99-04 V6 Mustang.

I have an 94 GT I've had about 2 months now. I drained the fluid about a week or so after buying it and the fluid was black as tar and found what looked like bluish colored metal in the filter. I had buddies tell me to go ahead and do a fluid and filter change and add Lucas Transmission fix. It'll move a little better now and get to around 90 but the whole car shudders that I feel through seat going through the doors. It'll do ok in drive but have to get to 500-1000 RPM to get it to pull off, but once it gets going and warm it'll move good at 300-500. But it wants to move forward in reverse and neutral. I tried adjusting the linkage and it moved forward easy but was hard to move back and think I keep going over 3 detents like the manual says. Also it'll crank in neutral and drive don't know if that's normal in drive or not as well. Also had someone else say change the MLPS that what I just described are some of the symptoms of the MLPS being bad said the 94 GT's especially are know for the sensor going out and causing the issues.

Can anyone tell me if it could just be the MLPS or am I correct in thinking the transmission is gone or almost gone?

Last edited by Rodeo Joe; 07-18-2015 at 08:21 PM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 08:06 PM
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The black fluid and the metal in the filter are not good signs, but the fact that the car will start in drive definitely tells me that the MLPS is either bad, or possibly just mis-adjusted. Also if you swap to a newer trans, you would need to still run the MLPS that matches your car, so buying a new one would not be a bad investment, since if it doesn't work, you can still use it on the upgraded newer trans.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Yea that's what I thought after seeing the fluid and filter but didn't see any pieces of metal in the pan itself but there was black sludge in the pan and around the magnet. How do I adjust the MLPS or should I just buy a new one when I have the extra money?
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 08:32 PM
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Yeah, the MLPS definitely needs adjustment, but based on what you found during the fluid change, I think you want to start planning to pull the whole unit out soon.

There's a good chance that it needs not only a rebuild kit, but some of the hard parts replaced. No way to know how extensive until it's open. You could prep another transmission to go in its place, but I'd be wary of used salvage yard units. It's too much work swapping a trans just to see if it's any good, and even if it is, who knows how many miles are left in it? If it were me, I would rebuild a used one before putting it in.

What are your goals for the car? Is it a daily driver, a track car, or somewhere in between? Do you have any special performance requirements or is a stock setup good enough?

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Definitely not track car lol I don't have the means for that just wanting a good running reliable stock car for now maybe headers or something like that later on down the road but nothing extreme. I don't have the money for anything like turbos or superchargers etc. If I do anything it'll basic bolt on's like I mentioned earlier headers maybe underdrive pulley etc. Wanting a car I could drive everyday if I wanted and be reliable. I was planning on more than likely rebuilding mine myself and possibly doing a JMOD. This is the kit I'm planning buying if I decide to rebuild mine

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-AODE-2x...4609f5&vxp=mtr
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 08:53 PM
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Had to ask. It's important to establish that before getting carried away on any such project. One more question: is your driving style "demanding" in any way? Do you like to do hard launches, burnouts, etc.?

If you have access to a newer replacement transmission, that would be ideal. But you don't need to limit yourself to the newer ones. We like the upgraded bits (like the mechanical diode) that can only be found in the newer ones, but I'm not going to condemn the earlier units, either. It lasted twenty years, didn't it? So you can stick with an AODE if you want, and it can provide many years of reliable miles.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have the money to buy another newer transmission and then rebuild it as well I'm planning on rebuilding the one in the car myself so I can afford to rebuild it. The used of salvage yards are as much as I would pay for a new converter and buy the rebuild kit. The previous owner and or owners abused the car and didn't maintain/service it, it's be very neglected through the years of its life. Won't ever again as long as I own it my family and all say I'm semi-obsessed about my cars I've had but traded in an 97 V6 mustang with around 400,000 miles and still ran like it was new I do my service and maintenance that's the life blood of a vehicle. I'd rather have a newer transmission but can't afford to buy a used one and the rebuild it as well unless I wait 3-6 months to have the extra money to do so. I bought the car do drive and enjoy not sit and waste away in my back yard.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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here's some pictures of the sensor and linkage with the transmission in neutral the best I can do with camera phone and laying on my back lol.







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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 09:34 AM
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I can't see the alignment marks in the pictures. Hope you have enough room to pull it off with the exhaust there.



If adjustment doesn't work, it may have an internal fault. Those older ones were prone to fail. >http://www.tccoa.com/articles/mn12-t...w_rebuild.html

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the video I'll have to get back under the car again a double check if it's not off it's more than likely the MLPS is bad and or the transmission itself right?

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 11:07 AM
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Right.

BTW, I noticed that RTV at the pan gasket. Having trouble getting a good seal? The OEM gasket is made to be re-usable (if not damaged). Those flat gaskets that come with filter kits are junk. You'll go crazy trying to make them work.

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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No I used the sealant to hold the gasket in place while I installed the pan. Wondering how I'm going to get to the wiring to replace the sensor. I think I can unbolt it without much trouble but wondering about the wiring. Hoping I don't have to drop the exhaust and or the linkage to do so.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 02:57 PM
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Unbolt it from the engine, drop it down, and carefully unplug it.

Clean it up with a rag and alcohol or gentle solvent, and relube it with dielectric grease before you plug it into the new sensor, and reinstall in the reverse order you took it off.

You will probably need a small mirror to see the alignment marks properly; they need to be perfect.

If your speedo is off, this is a perfect time to change out the gear in the side of the tranny.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Funny thing about that is the speedometer sits at around 20 mph at idle and with the car off and don't why could it be speeo gear?
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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I noticing the more I crank it up run and drive it the better it'll move doesn't want to move when it's cold unless I'm at 500-1500 rpm after it's warmed up some it'll move pretty well normal just feels like the whole car shakes sometimes in between and or during shifting.
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