early 94 trans upgrade? - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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early 94 trans upgrade?

My 94 bird has a build date of 12/93 and I read in the tech articles the early 94 torque converters have less friction area than the late model 94 and up. Im getting torque converter shudder again. I was going to do another drain and fill and thought it might be time to upgrade the converter and do the jmod. I also heard the 94-95 trans is junk. Should I upgrade some of the other easy to get to parts with sonnax parts while im in there or just the jmod and updated pistons? Im going to do the 96 pan and planned on the mark viii converter. I have a trans cooler already.
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 12:21 PM
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Well... the updated filter/pan and J-mod will help with clutch wear and solve the neutraling out on right hand turns issue, but there are a good number of parts in the planetary that need to be updated to those found in 98+ units. In addition the case on the early units also isn't good for performance or reliability builds - so if you're going to spend the money on freshening up the transmission with the goal of improved reliability and longevity, you really should start with a 99 or newer - they have the revised internals and much better valve body/case.

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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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I dont really have money to get a rebuilt 99 trans and id hate to get a used one and it not be any good.
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 01:19 PM
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Well so long as you don't have any problems besides converter shudder you'd definitely increase longevity with what you mentioned. A newer valve body can be used as well if you sleeve the guide pins and that makes for pretty much the best you can have without digging into the trans or outright replacing it. As Brandon said though, it'll still be compromised and not ideal for performance. The roller one way clutch is a ticking time bomb at higher revs.

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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 01:26 PM
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Well so long as you don't have any problems besides converter shudder you'd definitely increase longevity with what you mentioned. A newer valve body can be used as well if you sleeve the guide pins and that makes for pretty much the best you can have without digging into the trans or outright replacing it. As Brandon said though, it'll still be compromised and not ideal for performance. The roller one way clutch is a ticking time bomb at higher revs.
If the Mercon V and cooler doesnt fix the TC shudder, the only way to get rid of that is by replacing the TC itself.

Ive picked up used 99+ transmissions for $350 which still had plenty of life left in them, and they came with the torque converter also.

I have also blown out the roller OWC at low rpm's under normal driving conditions .. sounded like a bunch of marbles rolling around in the transmission after half of them ended up in the pan.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 02:55 PM
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If I was going to go through all the trouble to open things up enough for a torque converter swap, I'd seriously consider a transmission rebuild.

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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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there's a place near by called mustang plus that has a lot of used parts. If I can get a 99 trans for a good deal what should I do to it before installing it? Does the jmod on the 99 trans have the same shifting as with the older trans? Also ill need a different flywheel right?

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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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I found a wrecked 01 stang with 120k miles they want $300 for transmission. I could buy it and just do a fluid change on my transmission and drive it till it goes caput.
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Well so long as you don't have any problems besides converter shudder you'd definitely increase longevity with what you mentioned. A newer valve body can be used as well if you sleeve the guide pins and that makes for pretty much the best you can have without digging into the trans or outright replacing it. As Brandon said though, it'll still be compromised and not ideal for performance. The roller one way clutch is a ticking time bomb at higher revs.
Before you jump off of a cliff, add a bottle of Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fix. You have nothing to lose. It worked almost instantly in my 1995. It's been 5 years now and no more shudder.

Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 10:18 PM
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there's a place near by called mustang plus that has a lot of used parts. If I can get a 99 trans for a good deal what should I do to it before installing it? Does the jmod on the 99 trans have the same shifting as with the older trans? Also ill need a different flywheel right?
If that $300 trans comes with a torque converter, you will need the Mark 8 / marauder flywheel for the smaller bolt pattern TC, its a higher stall, smaller diameter, and upgraded friction material, so win win win.

You will need to swap some parts from your 94/95 trans, Shift linkage, TCC solenoid, wire harness ( or re-pin yours but the TCC solenoid is a MUST ) new speedo gear for the 8 tooth output shaft.

J-mod you will find some of the holes are already enlarged, but still go over it all, and remove 2-3 springs, change the 1-2 springs .. you will find the updated accumulator pistons and pan is already included
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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I have added the shudder fix already and it did nothing.
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-07-2016, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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decided to go with the updated valve body with jmod, Im updating the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator pistons. As far as springs for 1-2 piston im guessing since mine is a 94 it only has one spring. I bought the top light blue spring and if I dont want it to chirp the tires all the time I need to add the violet one in the bottom right?
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-08-2016, 02:58 AM
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Are we still talking the 94 Tranny ?

GET OFF MY LAWN~! ... & Let's not forget guys... There's still a dead Imaginary Ex-Girlfriend out there...
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-08-2016, 03:03 AM Thread Starter
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yep
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-08-2016, 03:27 AM
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Well hopefully you went LIGHT on JMOD 1-2 Shift hole diameter (I say .100 & spec says no MORE than .125) in ur new Main Valve Body if u have Roller Clutch which u do in a Stock 1994 4r70w ... RIGHT____?

- That's damn important - U do NOT want to hammer an old Roller Clutch w/stiff 1-2's & new Spec JMOD 1-2 holes for Mech Diode unless u want to be buying a 98+ Tranny next week - Mind u it;s a miracle u have a surviving 94 Roller Clutch to begin with so for God's sake put a decent Spring UNDER ur new 1-2 Accumulator ~! & Under means when underneath the damn thing on ur back under car - & When having fun drop it OUT of OD first & avoid the 4-2 Kickdown or u will become a regular on this Board.

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For Reference:

1-2 Bottom Springs:

F7AZ-7F284-BA 1992 1994 Violet
F3LY-7F284-A 1995 1997 Purple
F4UZ-7F284-A 1998 2000 Pink
1L3Z-7F284-AA 2001 2005 Dark Blue
1L3Z-7F284-BA 2001 2005 Yellow

1-2 Upper Springs:

1992 1993 Top spring not installed in production (Hey, look at that! lol)
F7AZ-7F284-CA 1994 1994 Dark Blue
F7AZ-7F284-AA 1995 1997 White
Supercedes: F4UZ-7F284-B
F75Z-7F284-AA 1998 2000 Light Blue
Supercedes: F3LY-7F284-B
1W7Z-7F284-AA 2001 2005 Light Green
F75Z-7F284-BA Brown Top spring used in econoline vans, explorers, mountaineers, and f-150 pickup trucks. Very stiff. Never factory installed in production cars.

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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-08-2016, 03:32 AM Thread Starter
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I make sure i always take it out of overdrive every time I floor it. Not sure how it was treated before I got it but it had 105k on it when I bought it two years ago.
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-08-2016, 03:49 AM
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COOL - Took me 140K Miles of stupidity to destroy Roller Clutch in 96MKVIII & NOT dropping it out of OD like a DA - Mind u 96Main VB lite years ahead of 94 Main VB but both were crap - & Of course u know 2-3 gets ZERO springs - NAPA has great deep Pan w/drain plug for $40-50 & yeah u need the 96+ Filter to match - Goodnite...

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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-08-2016, 04:35 PM
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F75Z-7F284-BA Brown Top spring used in econoline vans, explorers, mountaineers, and f-150 pickup trucks. Very stiff. Never factory installed in production cars.
This will bark the 1-2 shift everytime; unless it's a track only car, you don't want that.

I barked second in a school zone at ~5mph. Not cool.
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Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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I finally got a chance to do the jmod and I ran in to a problem with the 1-2 accumulator piston. First off I just pushed up on the piston and it stayed up while I removed the snap ring and cant even get the piston to fall out. Secondly I was going to go with the updated piston but I dont have a cap that goes over the piston.

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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 12:13 PM
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Exclamation

That sounds like scored Piston, Scored Accumlator Wall & probably an over tightened Test Plug that deformed the little side Port to 1-2 Accumulator Bore - Not to mention Broken Upper 1-2 Spring - U got a problem & it's GOTTA be fixed - Getting Piston out & fixing ALL the above AINT optional.

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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Any ideas on how to remove piston? It didnt shift hard from 1-2.

'94 bird- 20% tint,mark 8 driveshaft,clear corners, aftermarket rear spoiler, jmod, 3.73 gears, gutted interior.
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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I see sonnax has a sleeve kit, im guessing ill need that.

'94 bird- 20% tint,mark 8 driveshaft,clear corners, aftermarket rear spoiler, jmod, 3.73 gears, gutted interior.
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 12:43 PM
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Sounds like u had limited / impaired 1-2 Accum Piston Stroke so it could'nt shift hard... even w/probable broken Upper Spring - I say Push Piston up - de-burr the Accum bore, grab Piston lower parts with something GOOD & work it down & out - Long Needle Nose Vice Grips, "Fishing" Pliers, something long & strong & grippy - It's gotta happen so it aint like this is optional... Unless bore is total Toast new style 1-2 will be fine IMO - Some Scotch Brite Pads, curved Face Files, Jeweler Files will come in handy on Bore.... be "delicate".

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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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So some green Scotchbrite pads and maybe some fine emery cloth? Also what is an acceptable amout of stuff on the magnet in the pan? It was the consistency of anti seize but nothing else. What about drilling in to piston and use a self tapping screw in piston and pull it out.

'94 bird- 20% tint,mark 8 driveshaft,clear corners, aftermarket rear spoiler, jmod, 3.73 gears, gutted interior.
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 01:16 PM
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Magnet sounds fine... my God I'm glad it's survived~! - Stock up on some Crocus Cloth & some 500 Grit too - I'd drill as last resort - I'm thinking you can grip lower Piston "tangs" - A new Pair of long needle nose Vice Grips is ALWAYS a good Investment.

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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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So if the accumulator bore is good enough to use the updated piston im going to need the cap to put it all back together. Do you know where I can find one? Also cant find any crocus cloth but I do have some 600-800 wet/dry sand paper if thats acceptable.

'94 bird- 20% tint,mark 8 driveshaft,clear corners, aftermarket rear spoiler, jmod, 3.73 gears, gutted interior.
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 05:38 AM
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600 Grit is fine for last touch ups - Remind me why the old 1-2 Accum Bore Cap won;t work ?

GET OFF MY LAWN~! ... & Let's not forget guys... There's still a dead Imaginary Ex-Girlfriend out there...
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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It didnt have a cap just the old piston and a snap ring.

'94 bird- 20% tint,mark 8 driveshaft,clear corners, aftermarket rear spoiler, jmod, 3.73 gears, gutted interior.
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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There was a cap on 1-2 but it looked different from the jmod video. I got the newer style cap and the bottom spring was broken in three pieces. The bore looked fine and the piston came out no problem. I didnt see a filter basket fall down when I pulled valve body and there wasnt one up in there, do I need one?

'94 bird- 20% tint,mark 8 driveshaft,clear corners, aftermarket rear spoiler, jmod, 3.73 gears, gutted interior.

Last edited by 69ford99; 05-05-2016 at 04:16 PM.
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