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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-25-2016, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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tis is happenin

I had the transmission rebuilt 4 years ago and I have a slipping issue with it. what I mean is going from 2 to 3 and 4 it kicks it self out of gear.

what I am asking am I just over reacting or is there some thing else wrong with it. I am going to do another drop pan and change filter on it but I would like feed back to get a heads up what to look at when I am under her. she drives like a champ and still want to drive her when I have the chance. but I don't want to put more damage on the transmission
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-25-2016, 06:55 PM
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MLPS?

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It's not a 97 Sport, it just looks like one!

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-25-2016, 08:22 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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If it's not the MLPS, it's probably these:


Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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the odometer stopped working at 160k I fixed that after the transmission rebuild I did few years ago. I did find that gear for the odometer from this site to fix it now it reads 189k I know it has a lot more on the car pushing over 200k. but the trans is kicking out and in to gear. I haven't dropped the pan yet because the auto store said there is a bolt in the torque that you need to drain while your under there. what is mlps I don't want to sound foolish but I don't know what that is. plus grog6 what is that from what part of the transmission. auto type is kind of weird to me. I am not afraid to dive in but rather gather up much info before diving in. I am going to probably dive in about two weeks from now. to crack it open and see what might be floating in it. I might be over reacting on some thing that might be really simple like there is a bad filter that not letting fluid through properly to let it shift and might be in limp mode per say.

I do have a question though how would you do a fluid change on it. drop pan and put a new filter and gasket on most of what I heard is there is a nut to loosen on the torque converter to drain that first then the trans its self.

I just want to get most info to keep a eye on while under there to make sure every thing ok
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 03:41 PM
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MLPS = Manual Lever Position Sensor

Sensor on the side of the transmission. Hope I get this right! Basically tells the computer what gear the transmission is in. 94-95 had problems with the sensor with the car dropping out gear.

Joe

It's not a 97 Sport, it just looks like one!

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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how would I replace that other than a rebuild to get it
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 04:48 PM
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It's bolted to the side (outside) of the tranny on the drivers side. Do a search, you should find everything you need!

Joe

It's not a 97 Sport, it just looks like one!

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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When I get under the car in about a week I am going to look at it when I do the oil and trans fluid on it to see how hard it is to get to it. do that first then see if that clears every thing up on it

Thank you for the help on the feed back I am in a way new to auto type of transmission manuals are the only ones I ever drove so thank you for the feed back and what to look for

it is a neutral safety switch I looked up the part at autozone ande o'riely auto it came up as a neutral safety switch in there description on the part I didn't know that some thing like that could do that. kicking the gear out when it was in gear and throwing it back in. it does not do that a lot but it is annoying when it does. it didn't start doing that till I did the intake swap. I didn't mess with the trans when I did the intake swap to the 96-97 type of intake. I am wondering the sudden change.
I would have figured that I would have to put it in neutral to start it not while driving down the road and it kicks its self out of 2 and kicks its self out of fourth going down the road. MLPS Ironically said it was a safety switch I am stumped. I might replace it for giggles to knock that out of the way till I get a scan at a shop to do it.

I am just a little frustrated, a little tired and coming off of a stomach bug sorry if I sound frustrated sorry

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 09-05-2016 at 10:21 PM. Reason: Merge posts
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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ok getting ready to do the pan drop to get the old fluid out. there is two options for the transmission control solenoid there is this option PowerTorque - Automatic Transmission Control Solenoid

Line: PTQ | Part # TE111 and a single version. the reason why I am asking is I don't want to get the wrong part and just leave the trans the way it is. I already replaced the mlps and it is feeling like it has a hard time going from 2 to 3 to 4. what I mean is it goes a little hard in 3 and has a really hard time going into 4th. I am waiting right now to get all the fluid first but I wanted to ask what type of solenoid I need for it. it is going smoother but the fluid seems to be a little dirty and I know it is time to change it any way so if I am under there why not do the fluid any way because I am going to be under it to get the solenoid. so I am not mad about the fluid change but I am not sure what I need as in the type of solenoid
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-20-2016, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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ok I just put on a new mlps and it is shifting a little better.

I do have a question though when I drop my pan to change the filter and fluid how many quarts do I get 8 or 9? I already have the filter and gasket but not sure how many quarts. it is left me wondering
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-26-2016, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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dumb question is what does this one does F2VY7G484A is it for the 1-2 and 3-4. this is for the torque converter clutch E3AZ7G383A?
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-27-2016, 07:08 AM
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12 qts if you pull the pan AND drain the torque converter (recommended). Almost 13 if you also pull the valve body.
Those things hold a lot!

Al

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-27-2016, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95mercxr7 View Post
dumb question is what does this one does F2VY7G484A is it for the 1-2 and 3-4. this is for the torque converter clutch E3AZ7G383A?
First one listed is the shift solenoid pack.

Second listed is the EPC which is what controls line pressure.

D

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-27-2016, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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thank you Darrin for the heads up I wanted to make sure what is what if it did the weird shifting again I probably change that one that I mentioned. the weird thing is when I dropped the pan and changed the filter. it didn't do the kick out of 3 and 4 at wot it did feel hesitant at wot though. it did take 10 quarts though when I drained it but I couldn't find the torque converter drain plug on it. I think I had a aftermarket one put on it when I got it rebuilt I forgotten where I put the paperwork on it. I think I put it in the lock box where I keep the title to my vehicles I keep important things in there expecially some thing I pay good money for. I kept turning and couldn't find that plug. I know it did take 10 max because I did drain where the lines go into the radiator and waited for the lines to drain when I disconnected them. I took off the valve body to drain it more and let it sit over night to drain. for giggles I looked at the valve body it looks like the holes for the top looked like they were made a little bigger. but how it feels good but feels a little out there like it feels like some thing is a miss on it though. good thing it didn't have any metal shavings other than the usual things. but how it feels now it feels good but not like how it should I don't want to look for issues but I rather make sure it is ok than keep driving and some thing is a miss. but it did have a unusual long and hesident shift from 1 to second and hard 2 to 3. it was the question I wanted to as about that solenoid. to make sure to change that when I get a chance.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 12:47 PM
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Hard to follow the last couple of lines there. Not enough commas I think. I've noticed on a lot of these mid 90's cougars tbird lincoln models the shift from 1st to 2nd is soft. On the Lincolns so soft if you aren't watching the tach you can't tell at all that it shifted. Plenty of posts here and other sites about "MODS" to the accumulator and valve bodies to get that firm shift. As long as you have all 4 gears and no slipping I'd call it a win for now. Just pay attention for the first couple of runs. If it don't break in the first couple dozen miles it aint likely to break at all,

i'd rather go slow than not go at all

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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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it does shift really good but I might take a look at that pack. the shop I had it worked on said they did widen some of the holes in the valve body to help going into first and second better as well into reverse. they said it was do to poor serculation in those points. they did say they also put in better springs but they did say keep a eye on that one solenoid pack that I mentioned because they said it was in good condition when they did the rebuild and when they test drove it. it shifted good which it did. they said they would have changed it with no charge if it was not going to shift as well as it did. they did say if it is shifting like I mentioned and shown them the photo of the mag that was in the pan only shown common very little worn particals the trans is fine. I also had some of the fluid I drained shown them it as well they said it looks better than the most common problem than what I described. as in better condition cleaner with out metal particals and just a few on the magnit. by the way I am a bad speller on some words to be honest. they did say if it acts up again they suggest to replace that solenoid pack and I should be fine. they did go with a after market torque converter that does not have the drain plug. but they seen that new pan that I put on that has a drain plug on it they said to put it on jack stands on all four corners and when it is draining and about done rotate the back tires out of gear. it would spin every thing to help drain majority of the fluid with out of the trans with out putting unnessasary heat on the bands and internals. it would activate the pump when it spins pushing a little at a time to the bottom of the pan. the last time I have heard that was when I had my trucks trans rebuilt. they said it partially ingages the pump to push some of the fluid out of the torque and most of the trans when I do a pan drop. when or if it does that weird shift I might see what that will do but I think it would be a myth to be honest. why I got that pan with the drain plug is with my daily driver I put one on it and did make a world of difference on draining it. I let it drain for almost a day before dropping the pan to get most of the fluid to stop dripping. thank you for the replies. the shop is owned by some old guys that known Richard petty I met his son when I got the trans fixed four years ago. but turning the tires out of gear I don't know to be honest. but they pretty much know there stuff because state and sheriffs departments as well as other people keep going to them for there work. on the high $ jobs as well as state and sheriff beaten chase cars that are out on the road.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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the better springs I think was for the newer 4r70w type that are a little stiffer but I don't know if they put in the stiffer j mod type because they only rebuilt it as a daily cruise type of setup. with just a little of pep
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 06:37 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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Guys, I love y'all, really; but damn: Learn to structure a paragraph, please!

It's too hard to read your post to want to help much; I'm not trying to be a dick, but I can't help if I can't read it.
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Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grog6 View Post
guys, i love y'all, really; but damn: Learn to structure a paragraph, please!

It's too hard to read your post to want to help much; i'm not trying to be a dick, but i can't help if i can't read it.
can i get an amen!!!

i'd rather go slow than not go at all

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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sorry for the paragraph. found out it is the tcc solenoid it threw a code. didn't know what it was till I took it to a shop to get my muffler fixed. the shop next door I trust to work on my dd. they had a better computer scanner it came up with that. showed that code making the torque converter to lock up and making it not want to shift. at least I found out what it is though while I am under it in a few weeks I am going to replace that as well as the shift solenoid at the same time. because if I have to take it off to get the tcc solenoid off hay i'm there. I don't want to go back in to do it again as in drain the fluid to get to another part that I was there. other than that I can not complain.
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