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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-06-2016, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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You Dipstick

After a fight with my transmission for shuddering on me I went to a racing transmission specialist. He wanted to try adding Lucas trans fluid conditioner to my car. Well this over filled my trans by 1/2 qt. On my last mountain run I was smoking on the way home. I found that the fluid was being forced up the tube past the dipstick seal that was hard and half missing. I found a rubber wire grommet that replaced the old seal near perfectly. My question is how important is a good seal at the dipstick?? In other words could this have been causing problems for me???

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 07:39 AM
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1/2 qt over is the problem, though I bet it is higher than that. I would siphon a little out. Any time mine has been even a touch over full, there are also some bubbles on the stick. So that proves that it is foaming when over full, which is not good.

You should not need a great seal at the dipstick because it should not be that full. So if anything, it leaking out there is helping you get rid of the excess. Siphon some out before you damage something.

That guy is no transmission expert. Anyone knows how important proper fluid level is, and he should have siphoned an equal amount out first. Durrh!

Al
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I was getting that impression as he was telling me the excess would just flow out of the overflow. My thinking was hopefully not onto my rear tires as I am headed into an "S" curve someplace.
I have pump and hose, will pump out some before next run. One question is, is there a trick to getting a visual reading off the stick???? Everytime I try I can see no clear defined line like I do when checking oil. I'm checking when at normal operating temp on level ground running in Park. Isn't that
the correct way???
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 10:00 AM
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 10:25 AM
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There are dots on the stick for cold and hot. Ideally, the car should be driven at least 20 miles or so to get an accurate reading. It takes several checks to be sure of the reading. I lay the stick on a white paper towel to absorb the red fluid. It should be between the two HOT dots.

The fluid level gets higher with the temp of the fluid, so you should check it during one of your spirited runs to be sure at it's hottest it still doesn't exceed the highest mark on HOT. If it gets too high, that is what causes foaming. Like I mentioned, I have seen bubbles on the stick if it exceeds the highest mark even a little bit.

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97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 80k miles
94 Supra TT Auto - street/strip car
04 CVPI- Brenda's car - 76k miles
Previous Fords:
95 T-Bird LX 4.6 - fully optioned, owned 15 years, 220k miles
96 Cougar XR-7 4.6- Brenda's car, owned 11 years, 187k miles
88 T-Bird 3.8 - first T-Bird, owned 5 years, 206k miles
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 02:44 PM
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Every time I see the title of this thread, I'm reminded of:



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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Al, I'll check my fluid on my next run, but with the issues I've noticed I'll remove 1/2 qt today before I start. Then be ready to add back if needed when I'm havin' fun
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-14-2016, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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So I drained about 3/4 of a qt from the trans. No more smoking and I noticed that the shifts were harder/better. Shuddering in acceleration, but noticed that if a did a couple of accelerations from say 50 to 60 mph the shuddering stopped after the first acceleration. And didn't do it again unless I waited , still drivung, then did another acceleration then it did it on first acceleration and repeated the same behavior if stopping after the first. Still think this is the torque converter. Trans is shifting fine.
I am removing, via the dipstick, as much transfluid as I can to do a replacement. I think I can get about 5 qts out this way. Will measure everything and replace exactly what I take out.
Questions are. 1) How long does it take for fluid to mix or circulate through the converter?
2) best Mervon 5 fluid to use?
Thanks for all your help with this stuff Al.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-14-2016, 08:07 AM
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If you're going to replace the fluid, do it right - from underneath the car. It holds 13 qts total, so even if you can remove 5 qts thru the dipstick, it is not worth it. You will essentially be wasting 5 qts mixing it with old fluid. That stuff ain't cheap.

There is a tech article that explains a procedure of pulling the line off at the radiator and running the car, then draining the torque converter. This will leave you with only a small amount left in the pan when you pull it. You can get 12 qts out that way.

I have used Advance Auto brand, but any brand will work.

Al

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 80k miles
94 Supra TT Auto - street/strip car
04 CVPI- Brenda's car - 76k miles
Previous Fords:
95 T-Bird LX 4.6 - fully optioned, owned 15 years, 220k miles
96 Cougar XR-7 4.6- Brenda's car, owned 11 years, 187k miles
88 T-Bird 3.8 - first T-Bird, owned 5 years, 206k miles
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-14-2016, 09:35 AM
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for the shudder or washboarding i've used this in several of my fords (87 tbird, 96 cougar, 93 mustang 96 lincoln) Lubegard Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx - Tranmission Treatment
O'really part #19680
Summit racing part number lab-19680
Napa BK 7652883.
do a search here also i beleive there was quite a spirit discussion about 10 years back on this additive. on one side folks who never tried it so tried and debunk it on the other side everyone who did try it and then laughed at Ford dealers and AAMCO guys who quoted $1k or more to fix the shudder. I tube is like 2 oz of fluid and lasts for about 30K miles before needing to be reapplied.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-14-2016, 01:35 PM
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Proper Mercon V keeps the shudder from happening, and changing it at the proper interval helps too.

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