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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-11-2005, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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Those experienced in 4R70W swap to T-45

Could you guys rate the difficulty here? I've done the read up at MN12 Performance and in the technical articles here, but I wanted to hear from those that have done it. Also, MN12 mentions that you could try using mustang parts for this swap. Mustang Parts Specialties sells an entire kit for a Stang swap, and I thought this may be easier than searching boneyards for SC parts... Opinions? Oh and no, money is NOT an issue, so please disregard that if at all possible.

Dave
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-11-2005, 10:11 PM
 
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-13-2005, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samurai
Could you guys rate the difficulty here? I've done the read up at MN12 Performance and in the technical articles here, but I wanted to hear from those that have done it. Also, MN12 mentions that you could try using mustang parts for this swap. Mustang Parts Specialties sells an entire kit for a Stang swap, and I thought this may be easier than searching boneyards for SC parts... Opinions? Oh and no, money is NOT an issue, so please disregard that if at all possible.
The difficulty factor depends on your skill levels as a mechanic. Also if you have access to a hoist of some kind. The swap is fairly straight forward but there are some custom parts that need to be fabricated. The Stang swap you mention is not the way to go. Mustangs use a cable actuated clutch mechanism & the SC is hydraulic. The Bird was never set up for a cable system so quite a bit of modification would need to be done. I have heard that some guys have done it but I've never seen an actual post on the entire process. Every one that I know who has done it has used the SC pedal assembly with a hydraulic master & slave cylinder set up. There are a couple of ways to go with that system. I have an external slave set up using a stock Mustang throwout bearing & clutch fork. Others are using the McLeod internal (concentric) slave/throwout bearing (I had this set up originally but switched to the external). Your computer will have to be re-flashed to delete the automatic tranny program. The tech articles are a good source of information plus do some searches on the web site. Do your homework thoroughly before jumping in.

Jim
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-13-2005, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samurai
Could you guys rate the difficulty here? I've done the read up at MN12 Performance and in the technical articles here, but I wanted to hear from those that have done it. Also, MN12 mentions that you could try using mustang parts for this swap. Mustang Parts Specialties sells an entire kit for a Stang swap, and I thought this may be easier than searching boneyards for SC parts... Opinions? Oh and no, money is NOT an issue, so please disregard that if at all possible.

One other thing. If money is no object you could bring your car out to Southern Cal & let the shop that did mine do yours.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-14-2005, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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Interesting, I was not aware the cable clutch set up on the stangs. Good info, btw. Maybe southern Cal will be the way to go then...

Dave
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-21-2005, 09:36 AM
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East Coast Swap

Anyone know of an Eastern tranny swap shop for my 97 Cougar V8? Cal sounds nice but too far away.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-21-2005, 09:42 AM
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-21-2005, 11:20 AM
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really?? thats bad ***. If I can ever muster up the money I might give them a call and let them do a 5 speed swap on my cougar thats like what a 3500 dollar job

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-21-2005, 11:41 AM
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Any contact info for them?
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-21-2005, 04:35 PM
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-21-2005, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bymet
The difficulty factor depends on your skill levels as a mechanic. Also if you have access to a hoist of some kind. The swap is fairly straight forward but there are some custom parts that need to be fabricated. The Stang swap you mention is not the way to go. Mustangs use a cable actuated clutch mechanism & the SC is hydraulic. The Bird was never set up for a cable system so quite a bit of modification would need to be done. I have heard that some guys have done it but I've never seen an actual post on the entire process. Every one that I know who has done it has used the SC pedal assembly with a hydraulic master & slave cylinder set up. There are a couple of ways to go with that system. I have an external slave set up using a stock Mustang throwout bearing & clutch fork. Others are using the McLeod internal (concentric) slave/throwout bearing (I had this set up originally but switched to the external). Your computer will have to be re-flashed to delete the automatic tranny program. The tech articles are a good source of information plus do some searches on the web site. Do your homework thoroughly before jumping in.

Jim



what year mustang did your clutch fork come out of? i need to get one. and what slave cylinder did you use and how did you mount it? i am gonna use a s10 slave like madmikey did. i just need to figure out how to mount it.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-21-2005, 09:57 PM
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I did my swap on the cheap, so I kind of had to figure out different ways of doing things than other people had. When it was all said and done, I spend about $1500 on my swap including the computer tune and some exhaust work to keep the catalytic converter as far as possible from the slave cylinder to prevent it from cooking all the seals inside the slave. If you are going to do the swap in the exact same way that someone else did, than it probably isn't that hard. You just can't be afraid to cut stuff on your car. The hard part for me was figuring out a cheaper way to do it, but if you did want to save money, I would be more than happy to tell you everything that I used in my swap and how I did it. Basically, if you can remove a dashboard, drill a few holes, modify a few brackets, R&I a trans, and install a new flywheel and clutch, and get everything back together, than you can do the swap. There are enough of us that have done it now that you should be able to get enough help here to guide you through whatever other problems you may encounter.

Mike

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2005, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95tbirdguy
what year mustang did your clutch fork come out of? i need to get one. and what slave cylinder did you use and how did you mount it? i am gonna use a s10 slave like madmikey did. i just need to figure out how to mount it.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2005, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMikeyL
I did my swap on the cheap, so I kind of had to figure out different ways of doing things than other people had. When it was all said and done, I spend about $1500 on my swap including the computer tune and some exhaust work to keep the catalytic converter as far as possible from the slave cylinder to prevent it from cooking all the seals inside the slave. If you are going to do the swap in the exact same way that someone else did, than it probably isn't that hard. You just can't be afraid to cut stuff on your car. The hard part for me was figuring out a cheaper way to do it, but if you did want to save money, I would be more than happy to tell you everything that I used in my swap and how I did it. Basically, if you can remove a dashboard, drill a few holes, modify a few brackets, R&I a trans, and install a new flywheel and clutch, and get everything back together, than you can do the swap. There are enough of us that have done it now that you should be able to get enough help here to guide you through whatever other problems you may encounter.

Mike

Could you PM me some details, or maybe email to robj8hammer at gmail dot com? I'm contemplating this kind of swap in the future, and am trying to figure out the best route to take. My tranny is making some VERY unhealthy noises. Did you put an "extension box" on your T45?

Thanks,
Rob

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2005, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMikeyL
Basically, if you can remove a dashboard, drill a few holes, modify a few brackets, R&I a trans, and install a new flywheel and clutch, and get everything back together, than you can do the swap. There are enough of us that have done it now that you should be able to get enough help here to guide you through whatever other problems you may encounter.

Mike
Alright, that seems to be a little on the extreme side, there are lots of parts you can take off with out actually taking the dash out. Im seriously interested in this as well seeing as i have the expensive parts in my garage. Why with the dash and what extensions for the shifter and part numbers on the wildwood slave cylinder? Also, will the stock driveshaft work?

jOe

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2005, 06:24 PM
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Well you might be able to get away with just pulling the dash away from the firewall some, but I didn't have a right angle drill to make the holes in the firewall, so it had to come completely out. But taking it out made bolting up the SC pedal a piece of cake.

Stock MN12 shaft won't work, but a stock crown vic shaft will. That is what is in my car. Also the crown vic cop cars got either aluminum or composite shafts depending on year, and those would also work and would probably be cheaper to find one of those used than to have a composite shaft made up.

Shifter extensions, I can't tell you. I didn't use one. As far as the slave cylinder, I didn't use the wilwood part, I got one for a 94/95 4cyl. chevy S10. This slave cylinder has the same exact fittings as the SC master, and my setup with that slave and the SC master works very well.

Mike

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-23-2005, 12:11 AM
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if you pull the fuse panel out of the car and move the white gang plug that is mounted on the emergency brake assembly you can drill your holes with a right angle drill fairly easy. to remove the fuse panel all you have to do is take the panel under the steering column down. take the air duct out then take the three screws holding the fuse panel in place. loosen the two 10MM bolts on the front two plugs and unplug those. then unplug the last two plugs from the fuse panel. the white gang plug that is on the emergency brake assembly is mountet with 2 7MM screws. yes i did say 7MM. i tried for 20 min to get them out with a 9/32 socket and the a wrench but the 7MM wrench worked great. i will post some pics tomorrow for the fuse panel removel if you want.
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