rear seal on 4r70W tailshaft - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2006, 12:57 AM Thread Starter
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Question rear seal on 4r70W tailshaft

alright, i was changing the oil on the cougar and did my under the car inspection looking for anything that might be out of whack. and noticed tranny fluid on my headers (longtube) and on the exhaust pipes up to about the beginning of the gas tank cover. neways, i felt on the seal and noticed a nasty slice in it. i think that i might have knicked it with a box cutter when i was opening up the transmission i bought that got shipped form oregon. well i realize that the gas tank and driveshaft must come out, but how does one change out this seal on the tailshaft????
thanks everyone!!!

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2006, 08:03 AM
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1.) Pull Driveshaft (lower fuel tank and remove from rear of vehicle)
2.) Remove transmission cross member (exhaust bolts, unplug O2 sensors and transmission wiring harness, transmission mount). . . .Don't forget to place jack under transmission for support.
3.) Remove bolts (5) on extension housing (13 mm head).
3.) Remove extension housing from transmission by pulling towards the rear of the vehicle.
4.) Be sure to clean the gasket surfaces.
5.) Replace the gasket with new part.

Pretty much reverse the order of steps to get it back together. The manual says to tighten the tail shaft extension housing bolts to 19-22 ft-lbs. I am trying putting a little epoxy on the threads of the bolts to see if that will keep them from vibrating loose. . . .It is a known "feature" of these transmissions with high mileage on them to have the extension housing bolts vibrate loose over time.


Only follow these instructions if it is leaking out of the extension housing. . . . . .you can usually check this by seeing if the bolts are loose on the extension housing. If you just want to change the Output Shaft Seal (metal clad seal), then use a seal remover to get it out. . . .I think I bought mine for about $10 at AutoZone or O'Reilly's. . . . . .Just so you know DON'T buy this new seal at O'Reilly's, they list a seal for an A4LD in their database and this won't work on our cars! Get the seal from AutoZone or the Ford Dealer. . . . .they are both about the same price.

Currently In the Short Bus Garage:
2 - '94 T-bird LX's 4.6L (one with 300,000+ miles and one with 200,000+ miles)
1 - '97 Mark VIII LSC - INTECH V8 (120,000+ miles)
1 - '97 F150 XLT 4x4 Flareside, 4.6L (130,000+ miles) - Currently being dismantled and rebuilt with upgrades!
1 - '00 Mustang GT (likes to accelerate with the brake on!), 4.6L (60,000+ miles - only comes out when I need to get somewhere fast.)

oh yeah, and they all have 4R70W's

Last edited by wether; 11-15-2006 at 10:45 AM.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Question

Do you think that id be ok putting a few miles on it untill i can get rid of a 3/4 tank of gas for ease of dropping the tank?????????

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 04:23 PM
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Is it the seal or the extension housing. . . . .when mine was leaking, I thought it was the seal and changed the seal 3 times before I figured out the bolts were just loose on the extension housing.

If it is the seal and it is only a small leak due to the cut rubber part, then yeah it should be just fine to get rid of most of that gas by driving it, just make sure you don't get too low on Mercron V in that puppy.

If it is the extension housing, then I would get under it and use a 13 mm wrench to tighten up the bolts the best you can with everything assembled before doing too much driving. . . . I can only guess the headache that may occur if one of these bolts actually vibrated all the way out and was lost. This will also slow or stop the leak and you won't have to be so concerned about running too low on fluid just making necessary trips. Be advised, this is NOT a fix. . . .if it is leaking then the gasket on the extension housing is probably in multiple pieces, so even if it stops it will just stay that way temporarily.

Just let me know if you need or want anymore info. . . . .or my opinion as the case may be?

Currently In the Short Bus Garage:
2 - '94 T-bird LX's 4.6L (one with 300,000+ miles and one with 200,000+ miles)
1 - '97 Mark VIII LSC - INTECH V8 (120,000+ miles)
1 - '97 F150 XLT 4x4 Flareside, 4.6L (130,000+ miles) - Currently being dismantled and rebuilt with upgrades!
1 - '00 Mustang GT (likes to accelerate with the brake on!), 4.6L (60,000+ miles - only comes out when I need to get somewhere fast.)

oh yeah, and they all have 4R70W's
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wether
If it is the seal and it is only a small leak due to the cut rubber part, then yeah it should be just fine to get rid of most of that gas by driving it, just make sure you don't get too low on Mercron V in that puppy.
Just let me know if you need or want anymore info. . . . .or my opinion as the case may be?

thats all it is. just that rubber piece, almost like a bushing that goes over the top of the driveshaft, i know that i knicked it unwrapping the tranny when it was shipped to me but didn't think i got it that bad. ill just keep a eye on the fluid level untill i can empty that tank really good to drop it... any idea where i can find that part??

thanks for the help!

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-17-2006, 12:10 AM
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Hey guys you don't have to drop the tank or the drive shaft to access the tail shaft seal. Try this, unbolt ft of diff remove drive shaft flange bolts. Unbolt rear of diff and let it hang there. Now you should be able to slide the drive shaft back over the diff far enough to clear the tail shaft. Personaly, I would replace the seal in the car.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-17-2006, 01:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svtbird88
Hey guys you don't have to drop the tank or the drive shaft to access the tail shaft seal. Try this, unbolt ft of diff remove drive shaft flange bolts. Unbolt rear of diff and let it hang there. Now you should be able to slide the drive shaft back over the diff far enough to clear the tail shaft. Personaly, I would replace the seal in the car.

only reason i need to drive it is because i have a half tank of gas, and need to drop the tank neways due to a fuel leak by where you change out the fuel pump. so i need the gas tank down neways, but thanks

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-17-2006, 07:46 AM
 
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If you just cut the dust boot that won't make it leak. The actual sealing surface is flush with the tailhousing. If it was installed dry the seal would get smoked instantly. Sometimes new seals will be missing the inner spring. Make sure the spring is there when you remove the seal.

Make sure the yoke doesn't wobble. If it's loose it will leak again. Hopefully there is already a new bushing in the tailhousing. If not you should get a new bushing.

Get the seal with the extended dust boot from Ford. The Ford seal should already be greased on the inner lip. If not don't forget to grease it.

Alot of those seals at parts stores and even in some overhaul kits are the right size but made wrong. They usually just have some guy who never saw an actual part cross referencing the size with a cheaper replacement. Too much work to do twice.
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