AOD died on my 5.0l LX - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
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AOD died on my 5.0l LX

Hi, I think my transmission is completely shot. I have no reverse and neutral anymore.

It all started after 1st gear began to slip. I replaced the fluid and it really smelled burned. Because I have no experience with automatic gearboxes what so ever, I search on this forum for a solution. It seemed like Lucas Transmission Fix might help, but that the transmission would be on borrowed time from thereon anyway.
So I went to the store to get a bottle. Unfortunately no one sells it here in Europe. I should have just ordered it online, instead I let myself talk into buying Nulon Transmission Improver. Needless to say it was not a succes. The transmission started to shudder between first and second gear. Not what I wanted but it did something at least. I figured some of the passages or valves were getting unclogged and it just needed some time to do it's job. It only got worse instead, to the point that the TV-cable broke off the lever on the throttle body due to the shudder, with the aforementioned result.

Now I need a new transmission or rebuild this one. Does anyone know what it would cost to rebuild it myself, including upgraded parts and a shift kit?
I can get a second hand one for 400€, but I'm planning on turboing the engine, so it will probably not last long as well.

I'm really tempted to do a 5-speed or 6-speed MT conversion at this point. Unfortunately all the usual gearboxes to do the swap with are very hard to come by here.
I can get a old Getrag 265 for the same price as the AOD, which I know can handle the intended torque. It has a separate bell housing and I believe it even has the same input shaft spline as a mustang T5. The drive shaft will have to be altered anyway, so the output shaft is not that important to me.
All I need then is a clutch pedal, master and slave cilinder, a bell housing and adapter plate, and a clutch kit with flywheel to fit a 5.0l.

I've read that the starter motor from an AT is the same as from a MT, except with a different mounting position because of the smaller flywheel/flexplate. Is that correct? What bell housing would fit if I go with the 157 tooth flywheel and clutch from a foxbody mustang?

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 10:12 AM
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A T5 swap uses the same starter as the AOD, so if you use the fox Mustang flywheel, clutch, and bell housing, you can reuse your starter. One issue with that though is you will have to adapt it to a hydraulic clutch, since the Mustang used a cable setup, and there really isn’t room under the dash for the Mustang clutch pedal setup. I don’t know anything about that getrag trans, but one thing to keep in mind is the shifter location. You need it to be around 29-30” from the bell housing to the shifter.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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Do you know, by any chance, the length of a foxbody bell housing?

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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I just found these numbers:

93=7.18 inches
94=7.85 inches

Not sure if they are correct.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 12:01 PM
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They seem about right. I know the 94/95 ones were about an inch longer.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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I scrounged a free clutch pedal out of the parts bin of a friend of mine. It's from a Mazda MX5 NA.
I just test fitted it and it seems fit quite well. This might be a cheap and easy to find alternative to the SC pedal.
I'm out of town for work this week. I'll try to fit it next weekend and post an update if it works.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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I installed the MX5 (miata) clutch pedal yesterday. I used the existing hole as the lower mounting hole and used the gasket of the master cilinder as template to drill the two other holes.
I was planning on altering the clutch pedal so it would fit next to the brake pedal, but I quit like the position of the clutch pedal. It allows me to rest my foot next to it. Now I'm thinking of altering the brake pedal. Does the pedal assembly have to come out for this or is it possible to disassemble the pedal only?
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Last edited by ErwinN; 08-13-2019 at 03:30 AM.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 12:51 PM
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up

Wow, exactly what I was looking for. I would have never found that on my own. I love this forum!
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 02:08 PM
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 02:25 AM Thread Starter
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Here's a update on the miata pedal install. For the third mounting point, I cut a triangular piece out of the black liner under the dashboard. Underneath, there was a slot for fitting a threaded clip. After poking out the insulation above, I managed to fit a M8-threaded clip. After reinstalling the clutch pedal it turned out that the mounting point sits exactly above the clutch pedal bracket.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 02:31 AM Thread Starter
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To mount the bracket I used a long bolt, a self locking nut and two washers that were exactly the width of the bracket so the bolt could slide without falling out.
The bracket itself is a bit to long and will hit the wiring loom, so it had to be cut.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
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Here is how it all fits under the dash. Very snug, almost a factory fit it seems.

In order to mount the master cilinder, I had to use shims because the threaded ends have a collar that extends trough the firewall. This is almost impossible to get right and rattle free, especially because you have very little room to mount the cilinder and keep the shims in place at the same time. Fortunately the forces on the pedal are so that you can get away with rubbers shims. So I cut two piece of rubber hose that fitted snug over the collars and had them stick out 2mm past the ends, so that when you tighten the nuts, the spring pressure of the rubber keeps everything in place.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 03:21 AM Thread Starter
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I unbolted the brake pedal and bent it on an anvil to where I wanted it. You don't have to disassemble the whole mount for it like the article (Thunderbird to Mustang Pedal Conversion How-To) says btw, just the bolt the pedal pivots on and the clip that secures it to the brake cilinder.
I then cut the original plate off and fabricated a smaller plate that has the same size as the clutch pedal so that the rubber cover fits both pedals.
Retaining the original plate and cutting it down like in the article is only possible with the mustang covers because the rubber covers aren't stiff enough.
I found two Mazda 323 covers with the same size as the miata covers and the same striped pattern as the ford's. Very important for making it look OEM in a police state where almost all modifications to a car are illegal!
I'll post a picture as soon as they arrive.
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Last edited by ErwinN; 08-13-2019 at 03:43 AM.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 03:26 AM Thread Starter
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One question though: I forgot where this part goes. Is it part of the steering column?
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 07:05 AM
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Nice work, that's coming right along. About idea how close the shifter will be to the stock hole in the console? I'd think that is your next hardest task in making it appear stock. Good luck on the finish. Looks good!
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 07:07 AM
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One question though: I forgot where this part goes. Is it part of the steering column?
That's the BOO - Brake On/Off (aka 'Brake Light Switch' to any other vehicle.)

It goes around the pin that connects the brake pedal to the master cylinder.

RwP
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I found it, thanks. Was the only place it could fit.
However, I have another problem. I don't know where the interval governor was mounted.
I've should have taken way more pictures before disassembly. My memory isn't what it used to be.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Zep5.0 View Post
Nice work, that's coming right along. About idea how close the shifter will be to the stock hole in the console? I'd think that is your next hardest task in making it appear stock. Good luck on the finish. Looks good!
I was thinking of using a BMW gearbox. The GS6-53DZ seems indestructible and the 123D version even has the starter motor in the right position. But the 157 tooth flywheel is too big. I've heard rumors that a 77 Mustang 5.0 has a smaller flywheel. 148 I believe. But I couldn't find one and didn't want to bother with re-balancing.
If anyone knows of a smaller flywheel (<300mm) that fits the 5.0L H.O, let me know, I'm still interested. Even the 520D gearboxes are strong and only cost 75€.
Instead I bought a Getrag 265 from an Opel Senator/Monza 3.0. They have a separate bell housing and a remote mount shifter, so the position shouldn't be a problem. They aren't cheap anymore however. I payed 500€ for one that needed new bearings. A good one cost 1500€ nowadays. I remember when they only cost 150€. They are strong however. Jaguar used them with their V12's and BMW re-used them in the E30 M3, even though it's successor was already available. I believe the Jaguar and BMW ones even have the same input spline as the foxbody 5.0. The Opel ones have the GM spline.

I will make a new build threat about it, if and when everything fits.
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Last edited by ErwinN; 08-13-2019 at 02:28 PM.
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
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I did a quick measurement. With adapter plate it's about 4" shorter than the AOD and the shifter needs to move 4" further back as well.
This is easily done by making a new bracket and extending the shift rod. I will probably need a two piece driveshaft too.
I never seen one as long as the original one. I wonder how close it is to it's critical speed.
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