Axle swap for low end performance - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2010, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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Axle swap for low end performance

ive got a 95 bird with an axel code of Y, ive looked it up on charts and its apearently a 3.08 and ive got a 96 bird parts car with an axel code of E with 3.27's...

Which one of these will give me better low end performance on a weekend cruiser and whats the difference between them?
i rarely see 50+ MPH in this car
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2010, 01:56 AM
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To answer your question, 3.27. But you will notice very little gain with them if any.

If you aren't seeing 50mph+ alot I'd go with 4.10+

-Matt
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2010, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by bagged95 View Post
ive got a 95 bird with an axel code of Y, ive looked it up on charts and its apearently a 3.08 and ive got a 96 bird parts car with an axel code of E with 3.27's...

Which one of these will give me better low end performance on a weekend cruiser and whats the difference between them?
i rarely see 50+ MPH in this car
The difference is .19 . (Kids these days, can't do basic maths.)

A distance that will take 3.08 engine revolutions on the 3.08 rear end will take 3.27 revolutions for the 3.27 rear end. A side benefit is that you'll be closer to the torque peak on the 3.27 rear end for the slower road speeds.

Good news - you don't have to change the whole rear-end, just the diff.

Better - an upper knuckle bolt each side, and you can usually shimmy the half shafts out. Four driveshaft flange bolts, and four diff bolts (don't forget the ABS sensors if your car has ABS!), and the diff will fall out if you're not careful.

Add a new VSS/speedo drive gear in the tranny (so the speedo is right), plus if you vary more than to the 3.27, I'd opt for a tune to get the shift points right with the electronic tranny you have (an AODE, IIRC. Might be a 4R70W).

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2010, 10:34 AM
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The common gear ratio to swap in seems to be the 3.73. IMO that's the cutoff point between "daily driver" and "playtoy". (Then of course, my idea of a true daily driver may vary from another's. True daily driven = on interstates keeping up with traffic for 30+ miles.....others may be perfectly content to get run over while keeping their cruise @ 65 mph. In that light, 3.55s work best for me in my DD.)

But since you aren't hitting much above 50 mph and it's not being considered a DD, go nuts with a 4.10 or 4.30. Just do your homework and make sure you're doing what else needs to be done along with the relatively simple pumpkin swap.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-17-2010, 11:20 AM
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i've had good luck with 4.10 on the highway, only about 21mpg though
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-19-2010, 12:18 AM Thread Starter
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Okay to make it simple, would it be worth the time to swap it 3.27 over? they are both ready to get unbolted, everything else is stripped. If so, what would i benefit from it.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-19-2010, 12:20 AM
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Unless the 3.27's have a trac loc carrier and the stock 3.08 one doesn't, No. You will notice very little if any difference.

-Matt
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-19-2010, 12:41 AM
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Unless the 3.27's have a trac loc carrier and the stock 3.08 one doesn't, No. You will notice very little if any difference.
Agreed. Also, if you do swap over - don't forget to change the speedo gear so the speedometer and odometer will read correctly.

Also, I've got 4.10's on my 94 and have still seen 23+mpg on the highway running 70-75mph.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-19-2010, 09:20 PM
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i've had good luck with 4.10 on the highway, only about 21mpg though
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Also, I've got 4.10's on my 94 and have still seen 23+mpg on the highway running 70-75mph.
I'm ok with the mpg....not as ok with the rpms. Sure the motor holds up fine, but @ 70+ mph on the interstate for 90 miles, it gets annoying.

Think Jim Carey in Dumb and Dumber "you wanna hear the most annoying sound in the world?".....for 90 miles or so.

But that's just me.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-19-2010, 10:25 PM
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It doesn't bother me. Even with my exhaust, it's not that loud on the highway. Each to their own.

-Melon

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-19-2010, 10:36 PM
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Its only a few hundred RPMs more at highway speeds, If you dont like noise get a quiet exhaust and add insulation.

-Matt
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 02:26 PM
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For highway I love my 3.73s! 75-80mph is still quiet inside, and it brings the motor up closer to the powerband so it accelerates easily without having to downshift. I have driven my car on 600+ mile drives with the 3.73s, and at no point was I wishing I went with anything else.

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 03:07 PM
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I went from 3.08s to 3.27s and its not enough. Going to get a set of 3.73s at minimum later this year.

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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where can i get the 3.73's? im trying to learn everything i can but i know almost nothing about axles/rear ends.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 06:21 PM
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where can i get the 3.73's? im trying to learn everything i can but i know almost nothing about axles/rear ends.
Most Exploders have 3.73 gears if you have access to a u-pull it yard.....

Just read the metal tag on the rear end. It should have 8 8 for the 8.8 gear and then 3 73 for the ratio.

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 06:30 PM
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Check some F150's as well - my 2003 SuperCrew has 3.73's.

-Melon

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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 06:58 PM
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Its only a few hundred RPMs more at highway speeds, If you dont like noise get a quiet exhaust and add insulation.
Nah, it's not even the noise....it's....probably just in my head. lol

I think I might just need to actually try out some 3.73s to give myself a fairer assessment of them for my needs. I do like what going from 3.08 to 3.55 did for me, so......

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