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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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Opinions on Limited Slip Differential Options

From what I can gather there are about three types of limited slip rear ends available (someone correct me if I'm wrong):

OEM Traction lock (either with a standard clutch stack/spring setup, or the updated clutch stack/F150 spring)

Auburn (with cone type clutches (542079, High Performance Series or 542080 Pro Series)

Torsen (M-4204-T28)(with http://www.torsen.com/files/Traction...ol_Article.pdf )

Can anyone provide their opinions and/or thoughts on each type? Pro's/Con's, Best per application (i.e. street, strip, etc.) etc?

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010, 11:45 AM
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You missed one, the True-Trac 912A562.

I run the Torsen in my SC, and have the True-Trac diffs in my Cobra and LSC.

Nothing to wear out, expensive, but worth every penny.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLF View Post
You missed one, the True-Trac 912A562.

I run the Torsen in my SC, and have the True-Trac diffs in my Cobra and LSC.

Nothing to wear out, expensive, but worth every penny.
Thanks!

Any Pro's/Con's between the two you've run?

Does the True-Trac work fine with the half shaft clips even thought it is listed for a C-Clip axle?

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97 Ford Aspire (Slow, but getting 36 mpg (f'n Ethenol!! )
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94 Daily Driven 4.6L View Post
Thanks!

Any Pro's/Con's between the two you've run?

Does the True-Trac work fine with the half shaft clips even thought it is listed for a C-Clip axle?
The True-Trac p/n I listed is the later model and will work fine with the IRS axle clips, I installed one just last year in my LSC.

Different manufacturers, same concept, I can't tell the difference between the two on the street or the strip.

Between the Torsen and the True-Trac, I'd just get the one that's less expensive. Over the years, I've been able to find some goods deals on each.

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Cool! Thanks for the info!

Just for everyone else's info (ballpark pricing):
OEM: $270
Auburn: (542079/542080): $500/$470
FRPP: (M-4204-T28): $550
True-Trac: (912A562): $450

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010, 03:21 PM
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I prefer the OEM traction lock, the true trac is nice, Torsen are junk.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010, 04:42 PM
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Yeah, nothing wrong with running an OEM TL for all street cars. Save the money.

If the aftermarket Auburn cone types are like Mopar Sure Grips (also a cone type) they can't get rebuilt when worn out.....at least not easily or worth a damn after that.

Buyer beware: make sure you check and specifically ask for all such related info.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-22-2010, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyd0g View Post
I prefer the OEM traction lock, the true trac is nice, Torsen are junk.
Alan
So why are the Torsen ones junk?
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-22-2010, 10:09 PM
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They break too easily.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 12:29 AM
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What breaks in them? I was looking at one to use...

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 01:00 AM
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By the time you see it it is hard to figure what let go first, I guess the carrier.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyd0g View Post
By the time you see it it is hard to figure what let go first, I guess the carrier.
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Pics or it's

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 07:49 AM
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Trac-lock for street and economy, True-trac for the strip.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 08:41 AM
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I'm not planning on racing mine, just street driving with occasional aggressive driving or a drag strip/road course. So just look at a plain ford parts catalog or rock auto for a TL 3.27 or 4.11 rear gear with TL?
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NetKeym View Post
Pics or it's
Next time I have a broken one in front of me I will get some pics

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 11:57 AM
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By the time you see it it is hard to figure what let go first, I guess the carrier.
Alan


Hard to diagnose pieces and shavings, lol.

These never break at 100hp; it's always WOT with nitrous, boost, whatever...

I guess in some cases you just hope you can reuse the housing.

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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 12:04 PM
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The one in my broncoII broke under the awesome torque of a 2.8 carb motor....
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 06:09 PM
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For an IRS car, I would just use a regular Ford Trak-Lok. You can usually pick up a used diff for under $100, then the rebuild kit with all the new clutches is about $60 on ebay. With a solid axle car, the axle gets twisted by the motor, which effectively puts ore weight on the right rear, and takes weight off the left rear. In that case, you need a more solid connection between the 2 wheels to keep them both spinning at the same rate, but with an IRS car that loading doesn't happen anymore, so both wheels basically have the same weight on them, so it takes the same amount of power to break them loose, so you don't need as tight a connection between the 2. In a solid axle car, even moderate power can overpower the stock trak-lok, and in that case it would be worth it for the Torsen, but with IRS, it simply isn't an issue.

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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 07:48 PM
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I prefer the stock traction lock over all. If you need a stronger hold put an f150 spring and 8 clutches in it.
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