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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Oh no

My rear end is back together, but its moaning and making alot of bad noises plus vibration. So Im scrapping it and going to collect parts have the thing done right. A friend of a friend said he could set it up for me for $200 not including parts and this is what I got. Im still going to go with 373s and I have a spare tl. Whats the purpose of the f150 s spring Ive heard about?

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 10:03 PM
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F150 spring has more tension than the passenger car ones.

-Matt
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 10:18 PM
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Do not use the F150 spring...I know a lot of people talk about it and say that it can work, but it just doesn't, and if you do manage to get it in it's just going to bend in there because it's not made to go in there. Trust me on this one, put a stock S spring in there and your clutch packs will thank you After all the S spring is only in there for low traction surfaces like snow/ ice , in your general driving conditions it's just there for the ride.



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Last edited by Black_Cat; 12-02-2010 at 10:21 PM. Reason: added more info :)
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Anything else I should upgrade? Ive got screwed on this one and want to get it right. Ive swapped my rear twice today. Its got the stock one back in. Not a fun day. So far my parts list is mark viii pumpkin, tl(i have), f150 s spring, and another set of gears. What year f150 do I get the spring for?

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 10:27 PM
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3.73 gears are fine, take a stock trac lok unit and buy a new crush sleeve from ford and a trac lok rebuild kit. If you want it to lock a bit more than usual shim it to around .660", that's about the max so you can still get your spider gears in and C clips for the half shafts. The older clutch pack fibers have square ends like this [O] the newer ones have round edges and are a slight bit thicker. (()) I wish I had a picture but I don't at the moment. This should do everything you expect of it without causing failures.



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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Cool, then I dont have to buy something else. Anything else to upgrade? I still have to look inside to see the condithion of the ate up one. But if I go by sound Im thinking its done. Ive never heard a rear end make noise like this.

Will

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 10:29 PM
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Again I say DO NOT GET THE F150 spring, your stock one is fine. The F150 one is much larger and is distorted when it gets put in, read my post above



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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 10:31 PM
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Well lets try some diagnoses here....a couple questions

#1 did you use a new crush sleeve when you put it back together?
#2 how did you set the pinion pre-load...air tools? Breaker bar?



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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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I did. I posted at the same time and yours came first.

Will

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '95Cougar_XR-7 View Post
Well lets try some diagnoses here....a couple questions

#1 did you use a new crush sleeve when you put it back together?
#2 how did you set the pinion pre-load...air tools? Breaker bar?
I had a friend of a friend put it together for $200. He supposedly knew what he was doing. I do know it had a new crush sleeve and tl rebuild kit cause I bought them.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 10:51 PM
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Well now you need another crush sleeve That one is a done deal, that's where your vibration is coming from, he didn't tighten it down enough and set the pre-load correctly. Here is how you do this. Step by step

#1 If you want it done right and want a fresh setup, order a diff rebuild kit, trac lok, and crush sleeve and two quarts of RP 75w90.
#2 gut your diff check the bearings for the pinion to check for damage...if air tools were used to tighten your pinion bolt it can destroy the bearings.
#3 get your trac lok rebuild kit and sell the friction modifier to someone else! (Royal Purple gear oil already has FM in it.)
#4 rebuild your trac lok and shim it to .655-.660" There is a certain order you should follow and my buddy Ken has a video on how to shim it up. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GsLDg3C6Hc
#5 Ken outta save you some more time with this one too! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8APYO...eature=channel

#6 let me know if you have any more questions



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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-18-2010, 07:11 PM
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do use the f150 s spring....they have the same exact track lok as us mn12 guys only diff is the side gears are machined for axle c clips
there is a write up somewhere on here about rebuilding the trac lok with an extra friction and the f150 s spring
any questions?
mike

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-18-2010, 10:21 PM
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Yup, I guess the thousands of people who have the F150 S spring in their cars are liars!

-Matt
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-18-2010, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '95Cougar_XR-7 View Post
Do not use the F150 spring...I know a lot of people talk about it and say that it can work, but it just doesn't, and if you do manage to get it in it's just going to bend in there because it's not made to go in there. Trust me on this one, put a stock S spring in there and your clutch packs will thank you After all the S spring is only in there for low traction surfaces like snow/ ice , in your general driving conditions it's just there for the ride.
Uhm, that is funny I have installed plenty of them, they do not fit in some cases however.
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