Mark VIII Differential Removal - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Mark VIII Differential Removal

Is there any way to get the half shafts out while still attached to the knuckle like can be done on a MN12? i.e. Remove the three knuckle bolts, pull the knuckle and halfshaft (as a unit) out of the car....

On the Mark VIII, you have to remove the top knucle bolt, rotate the knuckle down, slide the halfshaft towards the differential just to get that one lower knuckle tork headed bolt out.

Is there some trick I'm missing?

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 09:06 AM
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Never done it on a M8 before, but I don't see how it would be different than a bird. I'm not following the the whole rotating the knuckle down to get the lower knuckle bolt out. Why won't the lower LCA bolt come out? Loosen all bolts, then pull the lower bolts first, then put a jack on the LCA and then relieve the pressure on the UCA bolt and pull that. Never had a problem doing on that on my 94 or 96 Birds. Put a 3 jaw puller on a halfshaft and spindle, yank it off, then pull the spindle from the pumpkin. Then, drop the diff.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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The Mark VIII lower control arm and bolts are different than the MN12's. The MN12 arm has two "tabs" that go on the outsides of the knuckle bushings. The Mark VIII control arm mounts differently and only goes from one side of the knuckle, not straddling it like the MN12.

Mark VIII:


MN12:


One lower bolt won't come out because it hits the large part of the halfshaft hub. You have to slide the hub out of the way.

Here's a great picture of the Mark VIII bolt:
http://image54.webshots.com/54/1/88/...8leLnqA_fs.jpg

Photo's courtesy of the "Delrin Bushing Guy"... Sorry can't remember who it is!!!

The bolt you can see isn't the problem. The one on the other side (that you can't see) is mounted in the same direction, so to get it out it has to go towards the halfshaft... which that big head hits.

So you rotate the top down, slide the halfshaft almost all the way out of the knuckle and then you have enough clearance to get the bolt out. Quite the PITA if you only have two hands...

97 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC (Chip'd, 3.73 T/L... so far... )
97 Ford Aspire (Slow, but getting 36 mpg (f'n Ethenol!! )
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 11:15 AM
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If you take the axle nut loose and remove the upper control arm bolt you can pivot the knuckle and get the bolt out. I found you can actually do them without taking the axle nut loose by grinding a little offf one side of the bolt as well. Makes them much easier to put back in too.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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I had thought about grinding part of the head off also. I also welded a steel flat bar to the proper size tork bit since a ratchet doesn't fit real well... Kind of like an offset screwdriver. Works like a champ.

I was really hoping there was a way to make it as easy as an MN12. And I'm tired of replacing (buying) axle nuts everytime I do something with the differential.

97 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC (Chip'd, 3.73 T/L... so far... )
97 Ford Aspire (Slow, but getting 36 mpg (f'n Ethenol!! )
84 F250 Dually w/6.9L Diesel (7.3L IDI pending)
73 Mercury Cougar Convertible w/351C 4V (Partially Restored)
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94 Daily Driven 4.6L View Post
Photo's courtesy of the "Delrin Bushing Guy"... Sorry can't remember who it is!!!

I was really hoping there was a way to make it as easy as an MN12. And I'm tired of replacing (buying) axle nuts everytime I do something with the differential.
That would be me.

The only way to do what you want is to remove the LCA/Knuckle/Half-Shaft as an assembly, by removing the two inner LCA bolts and the upper Knuckle bolt. But that will cause alignment issues unless you very carefully mark the position of the bolts. I only do it that way when the axle nuts and/or the end of the axle are rusted beyond recognition.

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Last edited by DLF; 12-03-2010 at 12:17 PM.
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