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post #1 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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broken diff housing

Just wondering if anyone has ever cracked a mark viii aluminum diff housing because I did the other day and am trying to find out if this is a common thing. I've heard of halfshafts but didn't figure the housing would crack. I figured a u-joint would let go first. I can see two cracks one from where the cover bolts forward and one from the top of the housing going down. There could be more, can't fit under the car to look much closer. Any input/advice on preventing this from happening again would be greatly appreciated

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post #2 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 08:40 PM
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Usually people break the rear cover, not the housing itself. I think I've only ever seen one other housing cracked.

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post #3 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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So should I just chock this up as a freak accident or should I buy something to reinforce the new housing so I don't do this again?

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post #4 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 09:49 PM
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What's the condition of the bushings/mounts?

Case failure is very uncommon, even the cover is uncommon in a stock power auto car.

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post #5 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 09:58 PM
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The only casing I've seen cracked was due to a drop off a diff jack from about 5 feet.

I've also only seen 1 cover cracked. Neither one is very common.

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post #6 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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I will check everything out and take plenty of pictures when I go to replace it. I have a jmod and stomped on it from a standstill, it was spinning just the right rear and then when it shifted to 2nd is when the rear let go. I haven't been able to get under the car to look at too much but from just looking at it while the cars on all four wheels I noticed the two cracks I mentioned

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post #7 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-08-2011, 12:05 AM
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A lot of people have put a lot of power down through mark8 cases without a case breaking. Could be from an accident of some kind?

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #8 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-08-2011, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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I was thinking maybe it could be damage from the previous owner and it finally let go but I've had it for about 60,000 miles now and they have all been hard miles so I would think it would have gone by now if it was from some sort or wreck or previous damage. I've never lifted the car by the diff or anything like that. I'm wondering if this is just one of those fluke breakages

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post #9 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-08-2011, 08:01 PM
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This is the only one I remember seeing: Race it, Break it, Fix it, Repeat

Do you have a pic of your damaged diff?

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post #10 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-08-2011, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have any pics yet. I will once I get it tore apart. Hopefully this week if the weather cooperates since the real race car is in the shop and there is so much crap in the other bay of my shop

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post #11 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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here is a picture of the crack, little bigger than I thought originally. Havent started to tear it apart yet, they are callin for 4-6 iches of snow tonight here

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post #12 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 04:43 PM
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When you said, "when it shifted to 2nd is when the rear let go", I suspect you'll find a grenaded ring/pinion and/or trac lock/differential. I say that because the crack looks to have been pushed outward.

Now the question will be which came first: the grenaded innards causing the cracked case, or the cracked case causing the grenaded innards?

My money is on the innards failing first. I bet a bearing went out and allowed the ring/pinion to “meet” in a very “unkind” manner.

But I’m definitely no expert!

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post #13 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 09:04 PM
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Yeah, you'll have to get that diff out from under the car and give it a good autopsy. Until then, I'm leaning towards an internal failure too.

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post #14 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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What's the quickest way you guys have found to pull those out. I was thinkin just pop the halfshafts out the sides and unbolt the driveshaft then just four bolts and it drops down. Am I right?

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post #15 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragracer969 View Post
What's the quickest way you guys have found to pull those out. I was thinkin just pop the halfshafts out the sides and unbolt the driveshaft then just four bolts and it drops down. Am I right?
That's pretty much it. It takes a little longer to get everything ready to drop out the diff than it does to actually drop it out. Don't be intimidated by it though.

Have a good pair of jackstands and a good floorjack handy.

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post #16 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 09:14 PM
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And while you're there.....what gears do you have? You may want to upgrade to a better ratio. Sounds like you need a TL as well.

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post #17 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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If I had the money I would but I'll just be putting stock stuff back in place. I have 4.10s but I don't have a TL or the extra time and cash to have someone set up the gears for me. I'm assuming just seperate the rear control arms so you can swing the hub out enough to pull out the halfshafts?

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post #18 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 10:50 PM
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i did a number on mine


im guessing that prostock launching a 5spd on dragslicks didnt help....any real power needs an iron case
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post #19 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 11:32 PM
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I don't see a problem with the iron or aluminum case, the condition of the internal parts is what matters. The LPW cover has girdle support which would strengthen both parts.
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post #20 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 04:40 PM
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Now that's the kind of breakage I'm expecting to see whenever someone says they broke their diff.

Dragracer969, you're just going to have to try harder next time. lol

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post #21 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Lol I'm hopin there isn't a next time. The car might be getting sold this spring

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-03 GT valve body with Jmod
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post #22 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyd0g View Post
I don't see a problem with the iron or aluminum case, the condition of the internal parts is what matters. The LPW cover has girdle support which would strengthen both parts.
Alan
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post #23 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 01:06 PM
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What's the quickest way you guys have found to pull those out. I was thinkin just pop the halfshafts out the sides and unbolt the driveshaft then just four bolts and it drops down. Am I right?
To get the diff out: after the DS is unbolted, unbolt the diff, and let it drop down a bit. Put a jack under it, so it doesn't waste the halfshafts. You can lower it until the HS about touches the LCA.

Then you'll have to unbolt the lower knuckle bolts on one side, and pull that side out of the diff, then ease out the other halfshaft; a large flat screwdriver helps to pop the circlips out. (Remember, If one side has been off, it will be the easiest to get the bolts out of.)

I'd say "Be careful of the seals", but that's not going to be a problem in your 'case'.

That's the easiest way I found.

BTW, Does this ever happen in Auto tranny cars?

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post #24 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 06:22 PM
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i did a number on mine
I'm guessing that prostock launching a 5spd on dragslicks didnt help....any real power needs an iron case
mike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94 Thunderbird XX View Post
Now that's the kind of breakage I'm expecting to see whenever someone says they broke their diff.

Dragracer969, you're just going to have to try harder next time. lol


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post #25 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 94 Thunderbird XX View Post
Now that's the kind of breakage I'm expecting to see whenever someone says they broke their diff.

Dragracer969, you're just going to have to try harder next time. lol
Thunderbird XX, is this trying hard enough?? haha
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._5342968_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1156218_n.jpg
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http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3729154_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5817422_n.jpg

I got the old diff out as you can see, the new one is in. surprisingly the new one went in a lot easier than the old one came out. the only things holding the one side of the housing on was the bearing inside. took a pretty good chunk out of the ring and the carrier itself and there were pieces of the pinion gear wedged up aroudn the pinion. Im gonna guess possible over tightening of the cover bolts when the last person changed the fluid or just a flaw in the cast like previously thought

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-Strutmasters coil conversion lowering kit
-17" Borbet wheels
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post #26 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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also found out the car already has a 93 one-piece driveshaft. so now i have a spare lol

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post #27 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 09:10 PM
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I think the phrase catastrophic failure applies here

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post #28 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 09:21 PM
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I went through two covers on my mark viii housing with my t-lok after the second one broke I shortly after replacing the cover broke the ears on the front although I suspect they may have been damaged durring one of the two cover incidents. I replaced the assembly with an iron carrier with a newer t-lok with an f150 spring, carbon fiber clutches, and a different cover. I've had no problems with the new unit.

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post #29 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 10:20 PM
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These braces are nice insurance May have helped .But my punkin is iron

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post #30 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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id start spending money for that kind of stuff but my mark will be going up for sale in the next couple months, so i cant justify it.....it looks good though

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII
-Strutmasters coil conversion lowering kit
-17" Borbet wheels
-03 GT valve body with Jmod

Last edited by dragracer969; 01-28-2011 at 10:22 PM. Reason: didnt wanna post twice
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