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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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sc gearing

i was just wondering whats the average gearing for the 92 sc theres one at my local pick-n-pull
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 09:14 PM
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Stick or auto? It will have a trac lok though.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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its a stick or it atleast has the peddles for stick any ways
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 09:15 PM
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Isn't it 2.73's for manual and 3.08's for auto

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My driving is a constant struggle between wanting good gas mileage and driving like I'm Mario Andretti.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=134659&page=4

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 09:22 PM
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I thought manual is 2.73 and auto is 3.27.

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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hmm ok was kinda hopin this one woulda had better then my 3.08 trac-lok ty for the info
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 09:44 PM
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Depends on what you want. 2.73s in an auto would make a hell of a highway car

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 09:46 PM
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hmm ok was kinda hopin this one woulda had better then my 3.08 trac-lok ty for the info
You can cheat some - look at http://www.tccoa.com/articles/gears/gears.html and carry that chart with you. It won't guarantee that the pumpkin is that gear, but at least it's a start. Next is climb under the car and check the tag on the pumpkin.

With that chart, you're in good shape.

Some of the later cars have 3.27 from the factory, and there's other ratios that were available.

Since you've got a pushrod dinosaur (like I do!), don't pay too much attention to the mod motor guys who say "4.10 or stiffer ONLY". Our motors are torquier at the low end than theirs are - although theirs rev better than ours do.

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 09:47 PM
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Depends on what you want. 2.73s in an auto would make a hell of a highway car
Not really, unless he's booking 90+.

Consider he's got the same 5.0HO you and I do, and 3.08 still yields 75 MPH == 2K RPM. Much longer legged, and he won't be able to get the car moving on an AOD .

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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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i drive mostly intown not much highway

o ya i copied that chart so monday ill check the cars in the pick-n-pull

Last edited by 87fubar; 08-14-2011 at 09:55 PM. Reason: forgot somthing
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 09:54 PM
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i drive mostly intown not much highway
Then, my seat-of-the-pants say nothing stiffer than 3.73 unless you first rebuild the rear suspension with Delrin bushings (from DLF) and beef up the brakes.

Even so, I'd stick with 3.55 as a more practical ratio for the 5.0HO.

THAT said - I'm sticking with the 3.08s in mine. I do too much highway travelling

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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 09:56 PM
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I have 3.27's. Might not be able to get it moving at a light, but for extended highway traveling youd get better milage. Youd have to rpms are lower. If 3.08's are 2k what would 2.73s be? Definitly not what Id be interested in but different strokes for different folks. Im going 373's I only do short stints of highway. Im not sure 355's would be enough for me

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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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ive looked at those delrin bushings wouldnt the ride be a little rougher

an ive got all abs disc
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 10:06 PM
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It would. I thought I read somewhere he didnt recommend them for a dd. I could be wrong. I would still like to have some, their just to damn expensive for my wallet. Ive read the handling is phenominal and is supposed to help with wheel hop

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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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o ya whats the name of the rear diff mount that looks like v i cant seem to find this mount any were
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 10:40 PM
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The wheel hop is the main reason to go Delrin with a stiffer gear on the AOD and the 5.0HO. You could skip it - rubber or poly - but I'd go straight to Delrin if I push 4.x on a 5.0HO

87fubar - You mean the rear diff mount? Not sure it's made anymore, alas. They make good front mounts.

BTW - DLF recommends not for a DD due to the increase in harshness and road vibration. However, if you run enough power, you'll need SOMETHING.

Poly can do, but they don't make poly for all of it last someone checked.

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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 10:42 PM
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ive looked at those delrin bushings wouldnt the ride be a little rougher

an ive got all abs disc
So?

See for instance http://www.tccoa.com/articles/mn12ho...ke_upgrade.htm .

I'd opt for the Mark VIII brakes, or the PBRs.

Both will require swapping to 92+ spindles and sway bar end links.

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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So?

See for instance http://www.tccoa.com/articles/mn12ho...ke_upgrade.htm .

I'd opt for the Mark VIII brakes, or the PBRs.

Both will require swapping to 92+ spindles and sway bar end links.

RwP
might do that when i go about replaceing all the front bushings
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 10:49 PM
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I almost forgot - you MAY need to swap to the later model ABS sensors.

Me, I took the ABS off my car - was tired of fighting it to get the car to stop. Was cheaper to convert to conventional power, and the car STOPS now.

And that's with factory brakes.

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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is this electric hydro boost thing part of my abs
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-15-2011, 04:49 AM
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is this electric hydro boost thing part of my abs
If it's a 1991, and it's factory, it's the Teves Mk II. I presume that's what you mean, since it's not really "electric hydro boost" - there is no master cylinder, but a control cylinder that uses the ABS pump to do the assist for the front - AND ALL BRAKE FOR THE BACK. (Silly design that, IMO.)

Google "Duffy Teves Mk II" and read Duffy's treatise on it sometimes.

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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-15-2011, 05:22 AM Thread Starter
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just got done reading that hole thing

is this setup common on these cars

mine seams to work right for now ya think it might be a good idea to swap it out later on or keep as-is
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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-15-2011, 05:41 AM
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just got done reading that hole thing

is this setup common on these cars

mine seams to work right for now ya think it might be a good idea to swap it out later on or keep as-is
It was part of the SC and XR7 option package, yep. Was also available on low-line models as an option.

I'd find the parts in the boneyard and keep them for later, yep. Now, if you have the money, there's folks like The Big E that have parts to keep them running. Also, it'd be worth signing up at www.sccoa.com and paying the membership dues for the private info that's out there for the Teves Mk II ABS unit.

OTOH, I couldn't afford it after the THIRD motor sprung a leak (yah, yah, boneyard and eBay ... ) so I converted to vacuum conventional brakes. MUCH nicer.

I'm going to be converting to the later model spindles and Mark VIII front brakes for Just 'Cuz, or if not the Mark VIII then the PBR brakes. Not sure which yet, but it'll entail converting the spindles

That's my take on it. It's strictly up to you as to how you go.

RwP
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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-16-2011, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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looks like ill be doing that pbr's sooner then i thot some how i worped the pass side rotor an it killed the new pads that were couple months old.seen a 93 that has all new bushings/ball joints/tie rods and theres a 00 mustang there so think im set


idk if this thread should be in a diff spot or not kinda went off the topic i started with
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