How often do you check your diff oil? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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How often do you check your diff oil?

Just wondered how often you guys check the oil in your differentials? I'm ashamed to say that until yesterday I'd never checked mine. (I've had the car 6.5yrs)

I got the plug out using the square end on a 3/8" socket wrench (no socket). I could feel oil in there, but topped it up anyway. It probably took about 1/4-1/2 litre(qrt). There were no obvious leaks, apart from some very slight marks around one of the halfshaft seals. Not bad enough to drip or anything though.

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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 07:57 AM
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Ehhh... never...

The fluid in the Cougar needs a change for sure. I recently cleaned out, re-sealed and filled up the diff in the bird though.

-Brandon
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 07:58 AM
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Every time I change the oil, about every 5K miles (figure 8K KM)

Then again, I have a leaking pinion seal ... It's OnTheList(tm) to do.

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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 08:02 AM
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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Haha, glad to see I'm not alone! I knew there were no bad leaks, so I guess I forgot about it. I thought of it last week as I thought I heard a noise from the diff, and realised that I'd never checked it. I don't think there are any problems, but I'll try and remember to do it in future.

"...put me on a highway, show me a sign, and take it to the limit one more time"

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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 08:58 AM
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I check mine about once a year assuming leaks don't get excessive

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 09:00 AM
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I check mine under a variety of conditions:

1) Car happens to be on a lift and I think of it.
2) I'm changing it (which happens after SEVERAL years).
3) It starts howling.....

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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 10:03 AM
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According to my '95 T-Bird "Maintenance schedule & record" booklet in the glove compartment:

"NOTE: Rear axle lube quantities must be replaced every 100,000 miles (160,000 km) or if the axle has been submerged in water. Otherwise, the lube should not be checked or changed unless a leak is suspected or repair required."

And...

" (1) If your driving habits include continuous stop-and-go driving or driving in hilly areas, more frequent intervals may be required."

The "Owner guide" states under refill capacities:

Rear axle

7.5" Conventional......3.00 pints......1.3 liters
7.5" Traction-Lok.......2.75 pints......1.3 liters
8.8" Conventional......3.40 pints......1.5 liters
8.8" Traction-Lok.......3.25 pints......1.5 liters
To bottom of the filler hole. (all)

And....

"*** For Traction-Lok add 2oz. F3TZ-19B546 (WSP-M2C196-A) Friction Modifier for complete refill of independent rear suspension (IRS) rear axle."

I replaced my gear oil (90-weight) at 100k with Amsoil full-synthetic.

Lee.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 12:45 PM
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I check mine every time I change the oil. I'm already under there, better check it. Looks like the axle seals are starting to seep too Cant wait to do the TL 3.73s

-Rob
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 04:39 PM
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Note to self......check Diff oil on my next oil change !!
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 05:31 PM
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If it's a fresh rebuild, I'll change it out after about 400-500 miles give or take. After that I leave it alone unless I have a reason.

Delete my account.
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94 Thunderbird XX View Post
If it's a fresh rebuild, I'll change it out after about 400-500 miles give or take. After that I leave it alone unless I have a reason.
what happens if you dont change out the break in oil?

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splattered View Post
what happens if you dont change out the break in oil?
Most people don't. And that's usually not a bad thing; I'd just rather do it like that for my own peace of mind. As you might tell, I don't buy the Royal Purple bs.

Delete my account.
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 09:41 PM
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I check it when I swap differentials.

-Matt
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-20-2012, 10:36 PM
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I check it every oil change.

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Interesting reading peoples different "approaches".

Next question: When do you consider the seals to be leaking?

A: - When any oil gets past the seal at all, or
B:- Only when enough oil gets past the seal to either drip on the ground when your're parked up, or spray onto surrounding bits of the underside of the car??

"...put me on a highway, show me a sign, and take it to the limit one more time"

The Eagles
1975

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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RIP Dutch T-Bird (Robert Hendriks) 1970-2012 No doubt looking down on us from his low-riding T-Bird in the sky.
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 12:19 PM
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When I can see that the pumpkin is soiled on one side because one of the half shaft seals is leaking... so I guess that's A.

-Brandon
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 03:58 PM
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i try and check it at least every 50,000 miles.
change every 100,000.

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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 04:10 PM
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if you checked it when you got the car and it isn't leaking anything don't worry about it, if it is leaking check it often until you get it fixed. The worst differential damage you can get is from running them dry.
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leegrady View Post
According to my '95 T-Bird "Maintenance schedule & record" booklet in the glove compartment:

"NOTE: Rear axle lube quantities must be replaced every 100,000 miles (160,000 km) or if the axle has been submerged in water. Otherwise, the lube should not be checked or changed unless a leak is suspected or repair required."

And...

" (1) If your driving habits include continuous stop-and-go driving or driving in hilly areas, more frequent intervals may be required."

The "Owner guide" states under refill capacities:

Rear axle

7.5" Conventional......3.00 pints......1.3 liters
7.5" Traction-Lok.......2.75 pints......1.3 liters
8.8" Conventional......3.40 pints......1.5 liters
8.8" Traction-Lok.......3.25 pints......1.5 liters
To bottom of the filler hole. (all)

And....

"*** For Traction-Lok add 2oz. F3TZ-19B546 (WSP-M2C196-A) Friction Modifier for complete refill of independent rear suspension (IRS) rear axle."

I replaced my gear oil (90-weight) at 100k with Amsoil full-synthetic.

Lee.

You know, if you get the urge to take your car puddle jumpin.

-Andy
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skinny8822 View Post
You know, if you get the urge to take your car puddle jumpin.

Just go real fast over deep puddles, and waterbug skim over them.

My '95 T-Bird has a receiver hitch, and I sometimes tow my 1968 14' Runabout (Johnson 55hp) with tilt trailer. I do my best not to go too deep, and use a rope instead to pull 'er up some before I hook up. Lakes are not much of a problem. Haven't taken it to the ocean...yet. Which might be a different story.

Lee.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by leegrady View Post
Just go real fast over deep puddles, and waterbug skim over them.

My '95 T-Bird has a receiver hitch, and I sometimes tow my 1968 14' Runabout (Johnson 55hp) with tilt trailer. I do my best not to go too deep, and use a rope instead to pull 'er up some before I hook up. Lakes are not much of a problem. Haven't taken it to the ocean...yet. Which might be a different story.

Lee.
I never thought about hauling a boat... but I would still be pretty careful around the water. I guess I take my 96 on a frozen lake every weekend, never know when you find a soft spot. Well I guess the service schedule makes my argument invalid.

-Andy
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy625UK View Post
Interesting reading peoples different "approaches".

Next question: When do you consider the seals to be leaking?

A: - When any oil gets past the seal at all, or
B:- Only when enough oil gets past the seal to either drip on the ground when your're parked up, or spray onto surrounding bits of the underside of the car??
Dealership stand point: If it leaves drips on the ground then it is leaking...

My stand point: If it is moist around the seal drips/leaks are going to happen soon, I usually plan time to repair any seal on my personal vehicles that start to moisten or sweat. They do not have to be dripping for me to be annoyed and for me to fix them.

However... my f150 currently is "leaking" I may let it start leaving drips before I repair it's problem... (leaking oil from the passenger side rear head gasket) since I've never pulled the cab off of anything before.

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-26-2012, 08:32 PM
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The only time I have "checked" mine was when I replaced the oil.

John
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-26-2012, 10:16 PM
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Check it? Why bother. No need unless you see seepage/leaking. Do change it as recommended though. My car has just over 80K miles I'll be changing it this summer when I get new gears installed.

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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-27-2012, 12:48 AM
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Checking it every oil change allows you to clean off the fill plug magnet. If something starts to go wrong you'll hear it and see shavings on that plug. I'd definately want any and all shavings out of my differential, maybe that's why my seals don't leak. Its not that hard to check. Why not at least check the level and overall condition every oil change. I check every fluid during an oil change for level and appearance as well as checking the brake pads, greasing the zerk fittings and checking for any excessive movement in the suspension and potential leaks. Its just good practice, why not take the extra 10minutes? Could mean the difference between needing new pads and needing a complete brake job, could mean the difference between a high speed turn and a broken lca ball joint. I like the peace of mind.

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-27-2012, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Murder View Post
However... my f150 currently is "leaking" I may let it start leaving drips before I repair it's problem... (leaking oil from the passenger side rear head gasket) since I've never pulled the cab off of anything before.
There is a TSB on this for Expeditions and F-150s. I never heard of it until my neighbors brought their Expedition to my shop. It wasnt a terrible leak, just slow and had tons of dirt stuck to the surrounding areas! They opted to just keep driving and add oil. But heres the main reason I posted...You are gonna pull the cab? I thought you only had to do that on 99+ F250+ with diesel engines.

-Rob
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 01:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob View Post
There is a TSB on this for Expeditions and F-150s. I never heard of it until my neighbors brought their Expedition to my shop. It wasnt a terrible leak, just slow and had tons of dirt stuck to the surrounding areas! They opted to just keep driving and add oil. But heres the main reason I posted...You are gonna pull the cab? I thought you only had to do that on 99+ F250+ with diesel engines.
Yeah I've read the TSB's I'll probably upgrade to PI heads and cams and some sort of intake when I do the swap since I have a set laying around, originally I planned on using them on my 95 but since I no longer have it I'll use them on my f150 once the leak gets bad enough. From what I've seen in the engine bay it's tighter at the under cowl/firewall area then you'd think. I can't foresee not taking the cab off to pull them out. The real pisser is that the HG job has already been done once before by ford, I have a repair invoice from the previous owners. My guess is they didn't resurface the head.

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
Amber_Murder's Daily Driver.
-2005 White GMC Sierra 3500 6.6 Duramax, Dually, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG Commercial T/A's, Rancho RS9000XL Shocks, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, Banks Monster Exhaust
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