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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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Check your rear end mount



Wow, caught this just in time!

Going with the LPW cover and the SCP Beefy mount.

-Scott

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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 01:26 PM
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Nice I used the older mount as they are thicker, and removed all the rubber and put solid metal in mine lol

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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 01:50 PM
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Looka like a little JB weld would fix that right up.

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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 01:51 PM
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This also happens when you jack the rear end from this mount.

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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 04:26 PM
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Hmmm.
All I break are the outer axle stubs.
I wonder why ,how that happened.

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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OxmanWI View Post
This also happens when you jack the rear end from this mount.
If you use the jack on the diff, yeah. Placing the jack on the mount is just fine though, done it that way for years.

-Matt
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 05:41 PM
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guess I am putting my car on the lift tomorrow
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
If you use the jack on the diff, yeah. Placing the jack on the mount is just fine though, done it that way for years.
Really? I did that with my 95 v6 many moons ago and cracked it slightly in the same spot. I'm sure that not a safe way to jack the rear anyways.

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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 07:25 PM
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There's no way it can crack the diff side of the mount like that unless you put the jack under the pumpkin. All the cars weight ends up at the front diff ears/bushings and the rear mount and the rubber. If you place the jack under the rearmost part of the mount itself though, you're lifting directly on the IRS subframe with zero weight on the diff side of the mount.

It's plenty safe to do it that way, hence why I do it. I always lift from the centers, front/rear and I don't go under myself until I place the stands under first. Never been a fan of jacking the corners, way too tedious.

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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 08:16 PM
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I did that many moons ago

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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
There's no way it can crack the diff side of the mount like that unless you put the jack under the pumpkin. All the cars weight ends up at the front diff ears/bushings and the rear mount and the rubber. If you place the jack under the rearmost part of the mount itself though, you're lifting directly on the IRS subframe with zero weight on the diff side of the mount.

It's plenty safe to do it that way, hence why I do it. I always lift from the centers, front/rear and I don't go under myself until I place the stands under first. Never been a fan of jacking the corners, way too tedious.
It's going to be a balancing act every time you left from that mount. You can have the rear left or right tire drop either way while you're jacking the rear upwards. All depends on the weight distribution in the trunk and if your garage floor is level. Also if you have a full tank of gas as well. I wouldn't take the chance, but everyone will do their own thing.

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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 11:18 PM
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I'm not lifting all four wheels off of the ground and balancing the car on a central axis, I'm placing a jack under a central member on one end of the car while two wheels are still firmly planted on the other end. It doesn't teeter like that, otherwise tricycles would tip over at rest. Hell one time helped my friend turn his 64 Galaxie a full 180* around in his cracked and rutted driveway whilst pushing the quarters with with jack under the 9". That's admittedly a nerve wracking procedure I wouldn't recommend but damned if it didn't work without any drama.

-Matt
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 11:20 PM
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I've lifted every MN12 I've worked on since '99 in the same manner as described by Matt above without a single issue. I do work on a level surface, and I don't go under the car until I've placed the jackstands, but I've never had one even hint at leaning when lifting from the center of the front or rear. Placing the jack pad under the rear diff mount can't physically cause the damage seen above.

Scott, plan on sanding the powdercoat on the inside of one half of the diff mount (where the poly bushing slides in). It's a nice mount, but powdercoat thickness wasn't accounted for in the design. It's a bear to assemble the two halves otherwise. The LPW cover is a very very nice piece. Just put a little RTV on the threads of the bearing cap screws before threading them up against the caps to prevent any seepage.

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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 11:31 PM
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You guys are all jacked up!

I don't know, I would feel uneasy about it. It's everyone's personal preference I guess. Thanks, Josh

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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 12:45 AM
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Now that's a crack! Don't need x-ray vision to see that one. Dang.

The original owner's manual of my 'bird states never lift the rear of the car by placing a jack under the pumpkin.

The rear bracket is a safe, non-damaging, logical choice to lift the whole rear at once. But, I've got it easy. The car has a receiver. I do choose to place a small piece of 2x4 between the jack pedestal, and the metal of the car so that it combats scratches which would promote rust.

Upon making a decision to purchase a floor jack I made sure it was one with a good large pedestal (some are too small) that has a provision to allow the pedestal to turn 360*. And, I decided on a 3 ton.

I've never had a car even hint at tipping to one side, even making maneuvers similar to what Matt has described. The only time I've really sweat that concern is during a four wheeling recovery dilemma. Even then it never happened.

And ah...no, I wasn't four wheeling in the Thunderbird, lol.

Donuts in dirt maybe...

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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 02:07 AM Thread Starter
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Can't say that I've ever lifted from the pumpkin since I know better but I don't have a problem lifting from the rear mount on a "normal" MN12. Cougies 4 inches of exhaust makes it hard to get a bite on the sweet spot of the mount so I choose the sides or a corner area of the IRS near the center works well too. The car goes up flat not matter what side you lift from due to the rear cage and bar that runs betwix the shocks. The previous front mount bushing failure (as in totally gone)I had that made the pinion seal walk in the carrier housing may have helped take the mount out along with the many hard 1-2 shifts I love so much. The JB weld "keep the seal put" mod has held on strong for at least two years now. The mounts I've replaced in the past failed due to the rubber separating but they were easy to get back then and I'm not shy of the bolt mod...

-Scott

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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 11:57 AM
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I find it easier to jack from the transmission mount crossmember bolt locations; it lifts both wheels at the same time on each side.

It's also the thickest piece of metal down there, lol.

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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 08:12 PM
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I've never not lifted by the mount. It's virtually impossible for it to tip

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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 09:11 PM
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was there any signs it was cracked? Or did you just happened to look at it and saw it was cracked?

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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by VicRattlehead View Post
I've never not lifted by the mount. It's virtually impossible for it to tip
Really? Great story, tell me more.

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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 11:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OxmanWI View Post
Really? Great story, tell me more.
He's right, you're delusional

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. FrankenCougie View Post


Wow, caught this just in time!

Going with the LPW cover and the SCP Beefy mount.

-Scott
I just got my LPW cover from Alan. It's a nice piece.
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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 02:02 PM
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I broke/cracked mine on both ears inside where they fasten down. The symptoms were deep thud at 70-75 if I turned the OD button off or sometimes on downshifts, sounded like something in the trunk hitting. A friend of mine welded them back up and placed some more rubber padding in there. Recently when it was on a lift we saw some damage to the MMC driveshaft as a result, i.e a small groove was cut all around.

I come from a dusty place.
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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-04-2015, 06:50 PM
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Mount

I weld a 1/4" steel plate across the back to prevent it slipping out and a small plate on each side to add some strength...........I Road Course........I don't need any surprises.

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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-04-2015, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4point6r0x0rz View Post
I broke/cracked mine on both ears inside where they fasten down. The symptoms were deep thud at 70-75 if I turned the OD button off or sometimes on downshifts, sounded like something in the trunk hitting. A friend of mine welded them back up and placed some more rubber padding in there. Recently when it was on a lift we saw some damage to the MMC driveshaft as a result, i.e a small groove was cut all around.
Deep thud? Ouch, you got me wanting to look at mine first thing in the morning..

I get a deep thud at 15 or so mph downshifting to first. Also when od is on and i pat the gas.
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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-04-2015, 08:28 PM
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Those cracks will buff out.

Where can you lift the front from a centered point? My doors are complaining about my lifting from the sides.

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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 07:10 PM
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Jacking points circled in red, jackstand points in yellow.



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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-09-2015, 04:25 PM
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robertp do u have any pictures or can explain how you made your solid?

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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-09-2015, 05:23 PM
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Thumbs up

It may take a while, BUT, I really do believe that will buff right out !!!

NOBODY ever tells a story where they look bad !!!
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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-10-2015, 01:04 AM
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God, you guys get all worked up over the littlest things - that's nothing a little duct tape wouldn't fix, LOL!

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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-10-2015, 09:30 PM
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Anyone have pics of modifying there stock one? I'm thinking about welding it solid and melting the rubber out...

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