Not aluminum, but we have steel ones made out of roll bar tubing in the lemons car, and did not notice any difference in harshness with it, plus it cost almost nothing, just cut some roll bar tubing to length, cut the rubber off the washer part of the stock bushings, weld the roll bar tubing to the washer, paint, and reinstall.
I had a set made for the aluminum pumpkin in my bird when I ran it, the rear mount went bad, a hard launch and loud pop was the sound of the ear cracking off of the differential case. I've since replaced my rear mount, run poly bushings, and switched back to energy suspension red poly bushings with no ill effects after many drag passes.
I don't think that many people here are running them, AFAIK. You might as well just run them and if you don't like them just sell them and get polys. Nothing hard about that.
Bad idea if you think stacking the washers changes the pinion angle. As the angle of the housing changes it is not parallel to the mounting surfaces. Either tapered washers or paired spherical washers will be needed to accommodate the change in the angle of the housing to the IRS subframe.
Take the stock ones, and cut the rubber part of the bushing off of it with a razor blade. That will leave the center rubber bushing part to locate it, allow you to stack up the washers (probably after drilling out the hole a bit), and will allow you to keep the stock bolts to save some money.
Has anyone else run aluminum diff bushings on the street/track that can comment on traction and ride feel?
I have both the poly/alum bushings and the performance art works mount. Im starting my rear suspension install and will go with the polys till i get some road miles on the car. Then ill swap in the aluminum pieces and give a review for those wanting to try the same. Probably be a few months but comment now if you have.
Zack
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