1997 Cougar XR7 Axle Code XE - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-05-2015, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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1997 Cougar XR7 Axle Code XE

My new DD Has a XE axle code and I was wondering if anyone new what the "X" stood for. I'm aware the "E" means it a 3.27 Traction Lock. And being a V8 car I'm sure it's a 8.8. I haven't been able to find anything by searching online or the forums here regarding the "X". The official Service Manual only lists
"E". Obviously it's a non Traction Assist Non ABS car if it's got a TractionLock.

I was thinking maybe the "X" denoted a change level. But that should be on the actual Axle tag AFAIK. I was thinking maybe it meant Delete ABS but since ABS wasn't a standard feature there's no real reason to call out deleting it on a Door Tag. Both Axles do have tone rings for ABS but may have been replaced or the tone rings maybe a standard feature on all axles.

So I'm just curious if anyone has any idea what the X Factor is.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-05-2015, 01:10 PM
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http://www.tccoa.com/articles/gears/gears.html

Same reason 97's had W5 instead of just 5. I'm fairly certain it's just a 97 code thing. XE is 3.27TL.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-05-2015, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Murder View Post
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/gears/gears.html

Same reason 97's had W5 instead of just 5. I'm fairly certain it's just a 97 code thing. XE is 3.27TL.
Thanks Chris. So it a one year thing that doesn't mean a damn thing

I was curious if it meant anything at all.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-22-2015, 05:26 AM
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Yup mine is w5.

What makes trak lok so desireable for reason more than a 2 line burn out?
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-22-2015, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MerkCougar View Post
What makes trak lok so desireable for reason more than a 2 line burn out?
Because these cars have horrible traction without it. Light back end, a lot of torque, etc.

I can't count how many times I got stuck in places I should not have gotten stuck. Making a sharp turn into a driveway in the rain, pulling out of a grass surface.

Hell, one time I got stuck on a snowball! I had to get out of the car to see what I was stuck on cause there was not much snow. It was a piece of snow you couldn't even make a snowball out of!

My new T-Bird needs back tires, I can't hardly give it throttle from a redlight in the rain.

Al

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 80k miles
94 Supra TT Auto - street/strip car
04 CVPI- Brenda's car - 76k miles
Previous Fords:
95 T-Bird LX 4.6 - fully optioned, owned 15 years, 220k miles
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-22-2015, 06:39 PM
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Ahh I see. I was under the impression that with trak lok it's more dangerous and sharp turns leave you more prone to slide out. So my basic traction asist is less adequate than trak lok? I would think the limited slip would be better to prevent hazardous rear end swing. Limited slip means that upon a right turn the wheel closest to curb spins less than the outter wheel. While trak lok spins tires the same speed at all times.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 08:54 AM
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Negative. Limited slip and trak-lok are the same thing, just different mfr's nomenclature. The clutches in them slip enough to allow each wheel to turn at different speeds on turns. It is much safer and more stable than a standard diff in all conditions.

What you're describing is a spool or welded diff, which truly do turn the wheels at the same speed, causing tire hopping and chirping when making tight turns. And can be very dangerous on wet roads.

Al

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 80k miles
94 Supra TT Auto - street/strip car
04 CVPI- Brenda's car - 76k miles
Previous Fords:
95 T-Bird LX 4.6 - fully optioned, owned 15 years, 220k miles
96 Cougar XR-7 4.6- Brenda's car, owned 11 years, 187k miles
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 11:25 AM
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Exactly. What makes the slip "limited" is the clutches.

If the wheels have plenty of traction but are turning at differing speeds (as they would when turning a corner), the clutches will slip a little. This prevents the kind of problems you would encounter with a solid spool/welded diff.

But if traction is compromised, or the car is pointed straight ahead, the clutches hold the wheels, granting you the advantages that a locked diff offers.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 01:29 PM
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Ahh I'm starting to understand. So then what is Trac assistance for? And if I don't have trak lok what makes it conventional? If this is too newb of a question let me know what to search. I just want to know the information correctly if I were to explain it to someone or even when or if I upgrade. I prefer to understand what's going on and why it is "better". Appreciate the tone and replies.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-24-2015, 11:30 AM
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A conventional diff uses a cluster of gears, and no clutches to apply power to one wheel only. The wheel with the least traction spins. When going in a straight line forward, it is usually the right wheel. In reverse, it's the left wheel. When in a turn, it's the inside wheel.

The only time really both of them spin is on a snowy surface - you can really see it when doing donuts in a parking lot (my favorite Winter sport!) You can get the back end to really kick out, which only happens if both wheels are spinning.

The traction assistance (control) just applies the brakes to the spinning wheel, causing the other one to spin instead, hopefully helping you to inch along rather being stationary.

Brenda's Crown Vic PI has both trak-lok and traction control, which is pretty rare.

Al

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 80k miles
94 Supra TT Auto - street/strip car
04 CVPI- Brenda's car - 76k miles
Previous Fords:
95 T-Bird LX 4.6 - fully optioned, owned 15 years, 220k miles
96 Cougar XR-7 4.6- Brenda's car, owned 11 years, 187k miles
88 T-Bird 3.8 - first T-Bird, owned 5 years, 206k miles
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-28-2015, 06:21 PM
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Seriously thanks for the information it helping me decide things. If anyone has the time I would like a review or suggestion of the following things I presume are required for a gear overhaul.

http://www.buyfordracingfromdpm.com/...NION-SETS.html

The basic gears along with its install kit.

http://www.buyfordracingfromdpm.com/...tallation-kit/

Now what I don't know is what spline or speed dial will I need to have the correct speedometer reading. From my reading I thought it was the purple 28 teeth dial? And last but not least this is what I need for the differential desired as stated above. And if I install this it will then be a 31 teeth spline correct?


http://www.buyfordracingfromdpm.com/...NTIAL-31T.html

Any help and suggestions or advise is appreciated. Thanks in advanced
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-28-2015, 07:37 PM
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The trac loc unit you will need is for a 28 Spline for your half shaft axle. The 31 spline unit will not work.

Steve
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-29-2015, 11:33 PM
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In that case I have better luck hitting up a junk yard to find an old 8.8 28 spline trak lok of off a tbird or coug? What do I look for on the differential case to see if it's trak lok? Oh wait I can just look at the door jam sticker and compare.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 12:00 AM
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Well, there's always the chance someone's already done the upgrade. Only SURE thing is to pop the back off - but as a general rule, the tag (if it has one!) will have a "T" in the ratio number, and a space if it's open.

I'd go prepared to pop the back off if I were you, though.

(I've been looking for a 3T27 diff to rebuild for my Cougar, but alas, haven't found one yet.)

RwP

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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 07:32 AM
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How about this one? https://www.supercoupeperformance.co...s-specific-599

Al

97 T-Bird LX 4.6 - 80k miles
94 Supra TT Auto - street/strip car
04 CVPI- Brenda's car - 76k miles
Previous Fords:
95 T-Bird LX 4.6 - fully optioned, owned 15 years, 220k miles
96 Cougar XR-7 4.6- Brenda's car, owned 11 years, 187k miles
88 T-Bird 3.8 - first T-Bird, owned 5 years, 206k miles
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 03:27 AM
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The price just made so sad. ....
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