Ford 8.8 Traction Lock Question - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Ford 8.8 Traction Lock Question

Hello,

I been having some clunking issues in my differential. Most of the time I get a clunk when ever i let of the gas or press the gas, as well as a loud clunk when putting it in reverse. I also get some serious vibrations around 80 mph and up. I pulled the cover of the diff and notice that there seems to be quite a bit of play in the spider gears( when I say spider gears, I mean the smaller of the two sets of gears in side the unit) and side gears. I Wanted to know..

A) Should there be any play between spider gears and side gears?
B) is it possible for me to use the old spider gears(smaller gears not in contact with axle) from my open diff? They seem like they should be the same.

Note: these issue started after i rebuilt my transmission. There is also leaking at the pinion seal.

Set up:

Rebuilt and Jmod 4r70w (lowest setting)
Stock drive shaft (95 4.6 tbird)
rebuilt ford 8.8 t-lock with 373 gears(new steels, clutches, ring and pinion and bearings)


Anybody with good info/advice, please chime in,

Thanks,

1995 Tbird 4.6 sohc
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 02:08 PM
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As the clutch packs wear down, this can open up some play against the spider gears. Are you saying that there is play shortly after rebuilding the 8.8?

How are your u-joints?

As for your pinion leak, it's usually not enough to replace just the seal, which often wears a slight groove into the flange. There are seal-saver kits you can buy that go over the pinion flange, but I think they run about $30, and for just a few dollars more, you can buy a whole new FRPP flange.

1996 Thunderbird LX (4.6), previous daily driver

1995 Mustang GT (5.0), daily driver
1995 GMC C2500 (5.7), alternate daily driver

Last edited by Urambo Tauro; 09-28-2015 at 02:25 PM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urambo Tauro View Post
As the clutch packs wear down, this can open up some play against the spider gears. Are you saying that there is play shortly after rebuilding the 8.8?

How are your u-joints?

As for your pinion leak, it's usually not enough to replace just the seal, which often wears a slight groove into the flange. There are seal-saver kits you can buy that go over the pinion flange, but I think they run about $30, and for just a few dollars more, you can buy a whole new FRPP flange.
Thanks for your reply. And yes, this is shortly after rebuilding the traction lock (approximately 2000 miles after the rebuild).

And the last i checked, the u joints were pretty good, there was now slop in them.

1995 Tbird 4.6 sohc
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 03:05 PM
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Sounds to me like your diff mount bushings are shot.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Sounds to me like your diff mount bushings are shot.
Could be a factor, my dad said he notice the differential move when put in gear. where can I purchase these bushings from?

Thank you,

1995 Tbird 4.6 sohc
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 08:11 PM
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https://www.supercoupeperformance.co...-have-item-189

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 08:15 PM
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-29-2015, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for all your replys. I would still like to know what kind of play if any is acceptable between the spider and side gears.

Thanks,

1995 Tbird 4.6 sohc
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-29-2015, 04:08 PM
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I really don't think there's supposed to be any play. If you have it open already, it couldn't hurt to slide in the gears from your open diff and see how they fit. I don't think you can buy any of the spider gears separately, and a new kit containing all four isn't cheap (~$190).

When you rebuilt it, you didn't leave out the washers from the small spider gears, did you? They are slightly dome-shaped and fit between the carrier and the gears.

1996 Thunderbird LX (4.6), previous daily driver

1995 Mustang GT (5.0), daily driver
1995 GMC C2500 (5.7), alternate daily driver

Last edited by Urambo Tauro; 09-29-2015 at 06:23 PM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-01-2015, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urambo Tauro View Post
I really don't think there's supposed to be any play. If you have it open already, it couldn't hurt to slide in the gears from your open diff and see how they fit. I don't think you can buy any of the spider gears separately, and a new kit containing all four isn't cheap (~$190).

When you rebuilt it, you didn't leave out the washers from the small spider gears, did you? They are slightly dome-shaped and fit between the carrier and the gears.
Yea, I know those gears are expensive. Ill probably try and see if they fit this weekend. As far as the washer, i reinstalled them when I did the rebuild.

Thanks for your reply.

1995 Tbird 4.6 sohc
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Well this weekned, i changed out the little spider gears from the open diff i had laying around and that solved my problem.

Thanks guys for all the help

1995 Tbird 4.6 sohc
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 10:18 PM
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Good to hear! Were the old gears significantly worn?

1996 Thunderbird LX (4.6), previous daily driver

1995 Mustang GT (5.0), daily driver
1995 GMC C2500 (5.7), alternate daily driver
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-06-2015, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Urambo Tauro View Post
Good to hear! Were the old gears significantly worn?
Both sets had wear marks on them, but the set that i took out was completely polished on every tooth and each tooth seemed to be slighted thinner then the ones I put in. This tells me that they were worn a good bit, hence the slack I noticed. Everything is great now, no more hard clunks into reverse or when pressing and releasing the accelerator.

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