How much for Mark VIII tq. conv. and driveshaft? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-18-2002, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question How much for Mark VIII tq. conv. and driveshaft?

I've got a 96 4.6, and I've just got the eerie feeling that I should start beefing up my tranny... too many full throttle upshifts and plain ol' mean driving I guess. My questions are:
1. What year Mark VIII driveshaft and torque converter should I get
2. What else will I need. (or need to be aware of)
3. (And most important) how much will parts cost, and estimates of labor charges.

I'm a college kid and not a whiz with a wrench. (And I don't have my own garage either.)
Thanks so much.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-18-2002, 12:30 PM
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1: a 93 for the driveshaft and a 98 for the torque convertor
2: nothing that I can think of unless you have not done the
J-Mod yet.
3: I just gave $50 for a driveshaft, but they seem to go from
$50-150. Torque convertor was about $150 new.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-18-2002, 04:03 PM
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you'll want a NEW Tc and the required flexplate with it. costs about $200 (for both) from five star ford with your membership discount.




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96 Alpine Green V8
98 Audi A8 4.2Q in Racing Green Totalled
02 Audi A8L 4.2Q in Black

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-18-2002, 11:44 PM
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Yea, I did forget about the flex plate.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2002, 01:11 AM
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AS LIFTED FROM THE RAFFLE TICKET PAGE



Part# Description Retail
F8LZ-7902-BARM Torque Converter $181.61
F3LY-6375-A Flex Plate $ 63.65
F6LY-4602-A Aluminum Driveshaft $495.68
F8UZ-7A194-AA Drain Pan w/ Plug $ 70.08
F6AZ-7A098-A Tranny Filter $ 28.96
F7AZ-7F251-AA Accumulator $ 13.58
F7AZ-7H292-AB Accumulator $ 6.78
F75Z-7F284-AA Spring $ 3.33
F7AZ-7F284-BA Spring $ 31.40
F75Z-7F284-BA Spring $ 3.45
F2VY-7C155-A Gasket $ 2.49
F5AZ-7D100-A Gasket $ 4.03
F2VY-7A191-A Pan Gasket $ 13.51

Note: 97 T-Birds take different gaskets

Total Retail = $918.55

hey man$10 buck a chance
I got 5,
Mike

2009 Harley-Davidson Road Glide
1996 F350 CCLB 7.3 5 speed 4x4
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2002, 08:40 PM
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I'd like to further this question...

I'm sort of confused on the whole J-mod -- not how to do it, but what does it give me. I know I porbably need a rebuild on my 95, but if I do the j-mod NOW, will it prolong it or would it be a waste w/o a rebuild?

I got the $$ to do most of whats above (probably skip the driveshaft for the time being until I get a new diff) but at any rate, answers?
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2002, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fubarian
I'd like to further this question...

I'm sort of confused on the whole J-mod -- not how to do it, but what does it give me. I know I porbably need a rebuild on my 95, but if I do the j-mod NOW, will it prolong it or would it be a waste w/o a rebuild?

I got the $$ to do most of whats above (probably skip the driveshaft for the time being until I get a new diff) but at any rate, answers?
If your tranny will need a rebuild, and you just do the j-mod is like seeing a big *** hole in your roof, and just putting a tarp over it.

Do the entire build-up in Jerry's Thesis, and choose the springs and hole sizes that will get you the type of shift you want (even the softest settings are harder than stock), and put in a mark 8 TC and flexplate. Then the only thing you should need to do to your trans for the rest of the car's life is fluid changes.




Matt "Looks Like Egon" Davis
96 Alpine Green V8
98 Audi A8 4.2Q in Racing Green Totalled
02 Audi A8L 4.2Q in Black

I buy my OEM Ford parts at 10% over dealer cost from Steve in White Bear Lake, MN.
You drive "like a man possessed"... by a woman!
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-20-2002, 05:00 PM
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good way of puttin it -- makes perfect sense. I'd love to do the trans rebuild myself but I'm having problems just gettin an engine rebuild done on my cougar (JUST got the oil pan taken off today along w/ the timing chain housing and sent the heads/intake to get cleaned).

what I'll probably end up doing is gettin a trans build by Dennis I think? (dude in FL) and just goin that route (drivin down, stayin the night just for fun) and having him do a chip while I'm at it

thanks agian.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-20-2002, 05:51 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by GreenBird


If your tranny will need a rebuild, and you just do the j-mod is like seeing a big *** hole in your roof, and just putting a tarp over it.


Let me get this right, are you stating that you have to rebuild the transmission prior to the J-mod? Would you clear this up for me?

Jim Long
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-20-2002, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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No no no no no...
He's saying that if your tranny needs a rebuild, then simply doing the Jmod won't help. (Like putting a band aid on a broken arm... or a dead person, for that matter.)
What he is saying is that if you're already rebuilding, then rebuild in the manner that Jerry outlines in the tech articles.

YOU DO NOT NECESSARILY NEED TO REBUILD TO DO THE JMOD, BUT IF YOU'RE TRANNY IS CRAP NOW, THE JMOD WON'T HELP.

I think that's it.

James
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-20-2002, 08:08 PM
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No.

People need to understand what this mod does.

You enlarge certain holes on your transmission seperator plate.

They correspond but are not limited to upshifts and downshifts and gear engagement. The holes allow more fluid to pass through at a given time...

Now, on any transmission friction/heat is your enemy. The quicker and more efficent a shift occurs, the less wear on your transmission.

N/A with minor bolt ons you really shouldn't be blowing out any of the clutch plates in the newer transmissions -unless you're a moron.

94/95 transmissions are a different story. I've helped rebuild 4R70Ws, and nothing would put me more at ease that rebuilding a 4R to the specifications as stated in the transmission article. When you crack it open and get a look at what everything does, it all becomes simpler and you understand more.

So if you have a 94/95 in need of a rebuild, build it to those specs or order one from Dennis. Then feel free to mod the seperator plate. Don't buy into any of that Level 10 crap or Art's Transmission's this. Your 4R can be bulletproofed for under $700 in parts and under the instruction of someone who knows it like the back of his hand.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-20-2002, 08:35 PM
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Yes, James is correct.

If you don't want hard shifts, go with the mild specs, I did the 300hp specs thinking "yay now my tranny can handle 300hp". What I didn't realize is that since I'm fairly stock, the shifts would be very hard. I also had sh*tty hard, bald tires from the PO, and I was breaking loose at 1/2 throttle on dry asphalt (got a ticket from the police for faulty equipment). So I scrambled to get a new plate, and didn't even have time to drill that one...had to put it in and show the cop that day.




Matt "Looks Like Egon" Davis
96 Alpine Green V8
98 Audi A8 4.2Q in Racing Green Totalled
02 Audi A8L 4.2Q in Black

I buy my OEM Ford parts at 10% over dealer cost from Steve in White Bear Lake, MN.
You drive "like a man possessed"... by a woman!
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-20-2002, 09:11 PM
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ok, now I'm gettin this.
Green and Derek -- give me your thought on this (since you seem you know exactly whats goin on).

I've got a 95 with 113k+ on her and never modded the trans and never worked on a trans before. I'd like to do this myself, but ...well, I'm afraid I'd completely f' it up. Also I've got another car I'm workin on (a 89 cougar xr7 ) and want to know how long it would take if someone like myself tried it. Turn around time would have to be like 3 days -- fri/sat/sun or until my cougars' done. Unless I get some help and we KNEW we could get it done in 3 days tops.

I've also talked to Dennis and he said if I wanted, he could install my new trans in 45 minutes, but it'd be somewhere around 2k for me to do that (including drive down time, day stay and labor for the install), which is a little out of my price range but feasible in a few months, but I couldn't get any other mods during that time ....

your ideas?
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-21-2002, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by GreenBird
Yes, James is correct.

If you don't want hard shifts, go with the mild specs, I did the 300hp specs thinking "yay now my tranny can handle 300hp". What I didn't realize is that since I'm fairly stock, the shifts would be very hard.
OK I want my shifts to be pretty hard like having no problem getting rubber on the 1-2 shift. If I drill to mild specs I don't know if that will be firm enough for what I want, and I don't want to do it twice. Another concern is driving on ice/wet roads. I don't want to shift into 2nd and fishtail everywhere all that time.

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